꧁༺ 𝓢𝓱𝓮 𝓼𝓪𝓲𝓭, 𝓢𝓱𝓮 𝓼𝓪𝓲𝓭 ༻꧂

𝐒𝐎 𝐒𝐀𝐘𝐒 𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐕𝐈𝐒𝐈𝐎𝐍𝐀𝐑𝐘 𝐁𝐄𝐇𝐈𝐍𝐃 𝐓𝐇𝐄 (𝐈𝐂𝐎𝐍𝐈𝐂) 𝐐𝐔𝐈𝐋𝐓𝐄𝐃 𝐅𝐋𝐀𝐏 𝐇𝐀𝐍𝐃𝐁𝐀𝐆―𝐀𝐍𝐃 𝐎𝐍𝐄 𝐎𝐅 𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐌𝐎𝐒𝐓 𝐌𝐄𝐒𝐌𝐄𝐑𝐈𝐙𝐈𝐍𝐆 𝐅𝐑𝐀𝐆𝐑𝐀𝐍𝐂𝐄𝐒 𝐈𝐍 𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐖𝐎𝐑𝐋𝐃:

“Dress shabbily, and they remember the dress; dress impeccably, and they remember the woman.”
―Coco Chanel

𝐒𝐎 𝐒𝐀𝐘𝐒 𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐌𝐎𝐓𝐇𝐄𝐑 𝐎𝐅 𝐒𝐔𝐑𝐑𝐄𝐀𝐋𝐈𝐒𝐓 𝐅𝐀𝐒𝐇𝐈𝐎𝐍―𝐀𝐍𝐃 𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐇𝐈𝐆𝐇𝐋𝐘-𝐄𝐒𝐓𝐄𝐄𝐌𝐄𝐃 𝐓𝐄𝐀𝐑𝐒 𝐃𝐑𝐄𝐒𝐒:

“Remember, 20 percent of women have inferiority complexes, and 70 percent have illusions.”
―Elsa Schiaparelli

꧁༺ 𝓟𝓪𝓻𝓽 𝓞𝓷𝓮 ༻꧂

𝐃𝐄𝐒𝐓𝐈𝐍𝐄𝐃 𝐅𝐎𝐑 𝐆𝐋𝐎𝐑𝐘―𝐀𝐍𝐃 𝐑𝐈𝐕𝐀𝐋𝐑𝐘.

• COCO AND ELSA

Once upon a time, two little girls were on the path to destiny: one was an impoverished orphan in the slums of France, and the other was a privileged member of the Italian aristocracy. But despite their social status, each child was given a talent: for weighed together, the girls were equal; their gifts extraordinary. And with time, each young lady would realize that becoming someone great was the will of her heavenly Creator: for her natural gravitation to her destiny would be inevitable. Each child would see color the way no other did, and the line would break forth to serve as her guide: for the line―the most important of the design elements―would usher each child to the effect of the vision bestowed upon her: fashion design. That was the calling of the two little girls who later became two of the most revered artisans in the fashion industry: Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli.

The rivalry between the two legendary women had been fierce, as was the hatred that kept them enemy-centered towards one another. But, as I like to say, it only takes one woman with a dress or a pair of shoes more than another woman to conjure up the spirit of envy. And as was the case with Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli, the curved line that divided them pertained to couture, ready-to-wear: which woman could design the 𝘣𝘦𝘵𝘵𝘦𝘳 dress?

This work of historical fiction is a foray into the history of two of the most powerful women in fashion. And our narrator, Lily Sutter, who is also our leading lady, will guide us through the journal as I critique her accounts of two wars: one between Chanel and Schiaparelli; and the other, World War II.

Shall we, dear reader?

𝐏𝐑𝐄𝐒𝐄𝐍𝐓𝐈𝐍𝐆 𝐋𝐈𝐋𝐘 𝐒𝐔𝐓𝐓𝐄𝐑:

• NEW YORK, 1954

Lily Sutter (née Cooper) is a skilled artist fascinated by color: she lives in a world of vivid color―art, her fiercest passion. Lily is currently on the staff of a fine Madison Avenue art gallery in New York City. And the color-enthusiast is reveling in her thoughts―painted in various shades of blue―when her assistant hands her the telegram. It's from her old friend, Schiap. 𝘚𝘤𝘩𝘪𝘢𝘱 is the nickname of the illustrious Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli. The message is brief and to the point. Elsa Schiaparelli wants Lily to travel to Paris. She needs to see her, the telegram reads. Of course, Lily has no idea what Elsa needs to see her about, but with so much going on, Lily will have to decide whether or not to fly to Paris.
Lily can only imagine that Schiaparelli is lonely and longing for the company of an old friend. Or perhaps, she only wants to kill time gossiping about her archenemy, Coco Chanel. Could that be it? No. No, those were the old days. And none of them could 𝘦𝘷𝘦𝘳 go back there. Whatever the case is, Lily Sutter will return to her beloved Paris―and Elsa Schiaparelli.

𝐎𝐔𝐓 𝐎𝐅 𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐏𝐀𝐒𝐓:

• PARIS, 1938

Amid a world torn apart by war, Lily Sutter worked as an art teacher in an all-girls boarding school in London. Not long before, her husband, Allen Sutter, was killed in a car accident that Lily blames herself for: had she not been so adamant about going dancing rather than staying home like Allen wanted, the accident would never have happened. And now here she was: widowed and alone. When Allen died, Lily died―if only symbolically. Aside from her younger brother, Charlie, Allen was her all. They fell in love in Paris, the City of Lights, and Lily had never known a love so warm and embracing, powerful and unapologetic. The couple had their whole life ahead of them―until the fateful crash that claimed Allen's life. If only Lily had not driven too fast on that icy road. If only―
If only there were a remedy for the pain of regret.

Lily is only existing now: not living, merely existing. Her younger brother, Charlie, knows that. And it is for this reason that he wants to keep her near to him―in Paris. Charlie has problems of his own, however. He is in love with the married Madame Bouchard, Ania. Ania is beautiful and rich, but Charlie isn't her only extramarital affair. Ania is also involved with a German officer, baron Hans Günther von Dincklage: the head of the Nazi propaganda and one of Adolph Hitler's closest confidantes. Indeed, the baron is insanely prosperous and can provide Ania with anything she wants. But so can her equally wealthy husband, Anton; Charlie, on the other hand, is a different story. The handsome American is good-looking, yes, but wealthy? Hardly. Charlie, a Harvard Medical School student, doesn't have money; but he loves Ania―and Ania's young daughter, Katya. Charlie wants Ania to divorce her husband, take her daughter, and bid Paris farewell. If Ania would only return to Boston with Charlie, they would have their happily ever after. They could finally be a family. But nothing is ever that simple when control is a factor. And Ania, the beautiful woman who has never failed to turn men's heads, is under the control of two tyrants: her husband and the Nazi, baron von Dincklage―for both of whom Charlie is no match, financially. What the German von Dincklage doesn't know, however, is that his beautiful trophy, the Warsaw-born Ania, is Jewish.

Love will only carry one so far. No one knows this better than Lily, who can sense danger on the horizon. Ania's husband does not intend to let her go, much less allow her to take away his daughter. And this brings about a rift between the two lovers, Ania and Charlie. Their torrid affair is no secret; the couple is skating on thin ice. And when the surface finally cracks completely, destruction will be imminent. Meanwhile, a woman named Coco Chanel, who values Ania as a stunning and monied client, is also competing with the tall and beautiful Ania for the affection of Baron von Dincklage. Wealth, fame, unique beauty, and influence aside, Coco Chanel is desperate to give her love to the German officer. But the former peasant orphan must bide her time. And that she will, although it tortures her to the soul.

Coco Chanel wants Hans Günther von Dincklage. And she will do whatever it takes to obtain him as 𝘩𝘦𝘳 lover. Not since Boy Capel has Coco fostered such a passionate desire for any man so strongly.

𝐅𝐀𝐊𝐄 𝐈𝐓 ‘𝐓𝐈𝐋 𝐘𝐎𝐔 𝐌𝐀𝐊𝐄 𝐈𝐓.

Lily and Charlie receive invitations to attend Elsie de Wolfe's grand cocktail party at the Paris Ritz. But Charlie and Ania must be careful not to be seen together in an intimate setting. And although Lily and Charlie are hardly members of the aristocracy, the handsome Charlie instructs his sister, Lily, wisely: 𝘈𝘤𝘵 𝘳𝘪𝘤𝘩. And that Lily does―accumulating much wealth in couture, compliments of Schiaparelli and Chanel, along the way.

Everyone who's anyone will be in attendance at Elsie's party. Yes, 𝘵𝘩𝘢𝘵 Elsie. Elsie de Wolfe, the American actress with enough influence to sway the most elite in high society. Elsie de Wolfe, otherwise known as “Lady Mendl,” the wife of Lord Mendl, will throw the fateful cocktail party, leading to the intertwining of our top-billed cast members, like Elsa Schiaparelli, who plans to attend, not to be seen but to observe 𝘩𝘦𝘳 creations―and not those of 𝘊𝘰𝘤𝘰 𝘊𝘩𝘢𝘯𝘦𝘭―on the bodies of high society's most elite.

꧁༺ 𝓟𝓪𝓻𝓽 𝓣𝔀𝓸 ༻꧂

𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐓𝐖𝐎 𝐖𝐀𝐑𝐒.

• DRAMA UNFOLDING

With World War II looming and Adolph Hitler and his calvaries threatening to invade France, many people are on edge―as they should be. Nevertheless, the threat of war is not stopping business as usual in the Place Vendôme: for it is there, within her luxurious salon, that Elsa Schiaparelli is wheeling and dealing, stealing away as many affluent clients from her nemesis, Coco Chanel (𝘵𝘩𝘢𝘵 𝘍𝘳𝘦𝘯𝘤𝘩 𝘸𝘰𝘮𝘢𝘯), as possible. It's a game, a dangerous game that Schiap is playing. And sooner rather than later, her schemes will catch up to her. Most know that. But no one would have guessed that the ruthless battle between two of the most revered women in fashion would come to a head at the lavish costume ball hosted by the French soap heir, André Durst.

So much hatred―enough to burn a woman alive―is churning; the applause and so-called admirers are all a falsity: envy disguised as admiration. Jealousy, as cold-blooded as a serpent, hides beneath the warm covers of ovation. Here, the world doesn't love anyone, not even its own. And the people of it? They laugh 𝘢𝘵 you, not 𝘸𝘪𝘵𝘩 you. They 𝘭𝘰𝘷𝘦 to see the mighty fall down. These are those who feast to fill their bellies and drink until they're sloppy drunk. These are those who retain their wealth for a reason: they order expensive gowns without paying cash―only to have their maids return the garments (after wearing and sometimes staining them) to the salons a day later.
Coco Chanel can attest to this: they always seek to take advantage of her hard work. And if one knew Coco Chanel in her day, the same knew her fury―especially when one trifled with her and stood between the woman and her money.

Unfortunately for (𝘵𝘩𝘢𝘵 𝘐𝘵𝘢𝘭𝘪𝘢𝘯 𝘸𝘰𝘮𝘢𝘯) Elsa Schiaparelli, the fury of Mademoiselle Chanel became all too real: for when it finally broke forth, it broke forth―with a vengeance. Everyone, even Elsie de Wolfe, knew that Coco Chanel was ruthless.

𝐂𝐎𝐌𝐌𝐔𝐍𝐈𝐒𝐓 𝐎𝐑 𝐅𝐀𝐒𝐂𝐈𝐒𝐓?

• POLITICAL ENEMIES vs. POLITICAL ALLIES

Not only do the two women battle in fashion, but they also disagree on politics: Coco allegedly favors fascism, while Schiaparelli prides herself on being a communist, a Bolshevist if you will. Schiaparelli is a well-known enemy to many in high places, including Mussolini (a man with whom she refused tea) and baron Hans Günther von Dincklage―the latter whom she refused to greet in her salon. Adolph Hitler also lists Schiap as an enemy, but the rebellious woman couldn't care less about him; that French woman (Coco Chanel), on the contrary, would be keen to have her hand kissed by him.

Of course, Elsa Schiaparelli considers the future of her business should a dictatorship take the reins of her government, but she cannot afford to give in. Not after everything she's worked so hard for, including her most precious commodity: Maria (nicknamed “Gogo”), her beloved daughter―and only child.

• ELSA AND GOGO

Mother and daughter might be estranged, but Elsa Schiaparelli, a self-proclaimed workaholic, loves her Gogo. No money―regardless of the amount―was too much to pay when a young Gogo, suffering from spinal cord debilitating Polio, needed surgery. No hour working overtime in her office was too late, so long as it meant that Gogo would enjoy an even better life than Schiap herself did growing up. And Schiap grew up very affluent. But there is always a con to contend with every pro. And in the case of Elsa and Gogo Schiaparelli, the con was a combination of a lack of parental love, affection, attention, and emotional support. These things Elsa Schiaparelli lacked. Money and material things have their place. But they can 𝘯𝘦𝘷𝘦𝘳 take the place of those things.

𝐇𝐄𝐑𝐄 𝐈 𝐀𝐌, 𝐒𝐓𝐔𝐂𝐊 𝐈𝐍 𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐌𝐈𝐃𝐃𝐋𝐄 𝐖𝐈𝐓𝐇 𝐘𝐎𝐔 – 𝐀𝐋𝐋 𝐎𝐅 𝐘𝐎𝐔.

• LILY'S DILEMMA

Lily, already filled with guilt and grief-stricken over the loss of her husband, Allen, is now in the middle of a war of egos between Elsa Schiaparelli (for whom Lily works as a window display artist) and Coco Chanel. And if that were not enough drama, she is also playing the intermediary in Charlie and Ania's―extramarital―affair.

As Lily learns, peace eludes her new crowd; but she cannot abandon any of them. Lily is a gifted artist who only wants to paint life in the vivid or dull colors she sees. But at every turn, someone needs her to do their bidding: Elsa Schiaparelli wants Lily to spy on Coco Chanel, and Coco Chanel wants Lily to renounce Elsa Schiaparelli―and wear only her designs, of course, never mind that Lily cannot afford the price of Chanel's couture. However, working for Schiap, Lily gets her ready-to-wear and accessories, if not free, then at extreme discounts. But mostly free.

Back and forth they all go, living lives many people dream of; and eating and drinking only the best fare and beverage. But it's all about to come to a screeching halt as Adolph Hitler―a tyrant and a madman was there ever one―declares war on the world: both the rich and poor and the great and small. And although America initially vowed to stay out of it, she reneged: for the nation felt obliged to end the oppression of the Wehrmacht and restrain the madness of the German führer―and to avenge herself against the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor.

Yes, that beautiful city, Paris. Gay, merry, and free-spirited Paris. As the summer heat yields to the natural air-conditioning of autumn, the irksome spirit of fear also blows into the City of Lights to be an evil trial to its citizens. Motivated by hatred and maliciousness, the invasion of fear carries on the wind, vexing minds and preying on the hopeless. And now the time has come: the irritated entrails of Hell, after a prolonged churning, soon retch up an acidic and fetid vomit of its depraved contents―consisting of the armed forces of the Third Reich who have come to steal, kill, and destroy. And it is only by a small margin that Lily and Gogo, on Elsa Schiaparelli’s orders, make it out of Paris and onto a luxury liner, the 𝘔𝘢𝘯𝘩𝘢𝘵𝘵𝘢𝘯, to voyage back to New York.

Here is where the society balls and ritzy parties of Paris come to an abrupt end; and where the most famous couturiers of France close their doors and shutter the windows of their lavish boutiques. Here is where Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel, two of the fashion industry's most gifted and highly-regarded women, toil restlessly to put the finishing touches on their 𝘭𝘢𝘴𝘵 𝘤𝘰𝘭𝘭𝘦𝘤𝘵𝘪𝘰𝘯𝘴 before Paris falls prey to the predator of chaos. It is now World War II.

𝐁𝐀𝐂𝐊 𝐓𝐎 𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐅𝐔𝐓𝐔𝐑𝐄.

• NEW YORK, 1954

Here is where Lily Sutter started. The events of the past led her right back to this place, her city of origin: New York. It has been many years since her time in her adopted city, Paris―where the feasts succumbed to famine. But Lily survived. She made many friends and lost several. War will do that: it brings a sword to divide. But the war Lily escaped, WWII, will bring forth jubilation when she least expects it: for the pain of the loss she has suffered is not worthy of comparison to the joys of the happy ending awaiting her.

꧁༺ 𝓟𝓪𝓻𝓽 𝓣𝓱𝓻𝓮𝓮 ༻꧂

𝐒𝐏𝐎𝐓𝐋𝐈𝐆𝐇𝐓𝐈𝐍𝐆 𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐂𝐎-𝐒𝐓𝐀𝐑𝐒.

The men and women who co-star on the pages of this beguiling epic will remain implanted in the reader's memory as much as the stars they complement. Meet them as follows:

• Bettina Ballard, Elsa Schiaparelli's assistant, is a no-nonsense woman with a fierce temper. Bettina Ballard is a woman who would, with her lit cigarettes, burn holes in the clothing of other women (particularly the ones fooling around with her husband) whenever the spirit of revenge enticed her to. Incidentally, Bettina, like Schiap, harbors a disdain for Coco Chanel.

• Otto Werner co-stars as the driver for baron Hans Günther von Dincklage―and a new love interest for "Miss Lonelyhearts," Lily Sutter. A German military man, Otto Werner is a blessing in disguise and a second chance at love for Lily.

• Monsieur Paul Rosenberg, the owner of the Rosenberg Gallery on the Champs-Élysées, is the man who will escort Lily across the threshold into the reality of her dream.

• Robert Berenson co-stars as the American shipping executive who meets Lily and Gogo Schiaparelli in a cocktail bar in Genoa and courts Gogo across the Atlantic as they sail the 𝘔𝘢𝘯𝘩𝘢𝘵𝘵𝘢𝘯 to New York.

Also appearing as themselves on these pages of historical fiction are Daisy Fellowes, the sewing machine heiress and cutthroat socialite; Cecil Beaton, the world-renowned photographer; and Django Reinhardt, the Belgium jazz guitarist who befriends Lily over drinks at a party hosted by Lady Mendl.

𝐓𝐇𝐄 𝐋𝐀𝐒𝐓 𝐒𝐄𝐂𝐓𝐈𝐎𝐍: 𝐌𝐘 𝐒𝐔𝐌𝐌𝐀𝐓𝐈𝐎𝐍.

At once mesmerizing, harrowing, riveting, and brilliant, 𝘛𝘩𝘦 𝘓𝘢𝘴𝘵 𝘊𝘰𝘭𝘭𝘦𝘤𝘵𝘪𝘰𝘯 is a finely-crafted account of historical fiction set in one of the most significant eras in world history. On the pages of this unforgettable epic, the majestic imagination of Jeanne Mackin knits together a compelling blend of fiction and nonfiction―creating a fictional leading lady in Lily Sutter and weaving her into a biography of facts, actual events, and real people. And the bind-off is nothing short of ravishing.

Divided into three parts, consisting of blue, red, and yellow―according to Lily Sutter's love of primary colors and the stories of life the primaries detail―Jeanne Mackin's 𝘛𝘩𝘦 𝘓𝘢𝘴𝘵 𝘊𝘰𝘭𝘭𝘦𝘤𝘵𝘪𝘰𝘯 is a masterpiece of literary art, an outstanding narrative of excellence, and, in my opinion, an impending classic.

On the time-traveling and globe-trotting pages of 𝘛𝘩𝘦 𝘓𝘢𝘴𝘵 𝘊𝘰𝘭𝘭𝘦𝘤𝘵𝘪𝘰𝘯, Mackin's vast knowledge of art and culture is admirable, and her topics are well-researched. Here, the author presents an emotional tale of war, loss, grief, history, devotion, revival, and the unrelenting power of love. Without question, 𝘛𝘩𝘦 𝘓𝘢𝘴𝘵 𝘊𝘰𝘭𝘭𝘦𝘤𝘵𝘪𝘰𝘯 has heart. It is a dialogue about the human experience, not just the art of fashion and the rivalry between Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel―although their lives, intertwined with Lily's, are predominant in the chronicle. And I loved this story as it is remarkably literate and deft. Mackin's writing here is exceptional. And I would go one step beyond recommending this title to any fan of historical fiction, as I am sure they will enjoy it as much as I did.

As an afterthought, I might add that as I neared the end of Jeanne Mackin's 𝘛𝘩𝘦 𝘓𝘢𝘴𝘵 𝘊𝘰𝘭𝘭𝘦𝘤𝘵𝘪𝘰𝘯, I felt compelled to go to my handbag closet and pull out the first piece I touched from Chanel's 2008 𝘓𝘪𝘨𝘯𝘦 𝘊𝘢𝘮𝘣𝘰𝘯 Collection: a lovely beige diamond quilted tote, stitched with large black interlocking C's. Why? I don't know; I guess it was because I felt like I was in the story, in fashionable Paris, in the thick of it all. Oh, what beauty! What style! What grace! Trust, dear reader, that 𝘛𝘩𝘦 𝘓𝘢𝘴𝘵 𝘊𝘰𝘭𝘭𝘦𝘤𝘵𝘪𝘰𝘯 will keep you as entranced as it did me.

Five couturier-tailored stars.


𝐑𝐄𝐕𝐈𝐄𝐖𝐄𝐑’𝐒 𝐍𝐎𝐓𝐄: It is a pleasure to thank Berkley Books―and NetGalley―for the privilege of a complimentary copy of 𝘛𝘩𝘦 𝘓𝘢𝘴𝘵 𝘊𝘰𝘭𝘭𝘦𝘤𝘵𝘪𝘰𝘯: 𝘈 𝘕𝘰𝘷𝘦𝘭 𝘰𝘧 𝘌𝘭𝘴𝘢 𝘚𝘤𝘩𝘪𝘢𝘱𝘢𝘳𝘦𝘭𝘭𝘪 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘊𝘰𝘤𝘰 𝘊𝘩𝘢𝘯𝘦𝘭.

Analysis of 𝘛𝘩𝘦 𝘓𝘢𝘴𝘵 𝘊𝘰𝘭𝘭𝘦𝘤𝘵𝘪𝘰𝘯: 𝘈 𝘕𝘰𝘷𝘦𝘭 𝘰𝘧 𝘌𝘭𝘴𝘢 𝘚𝘤𝘩𝘪𝘢𝘱𝘢𝘳𝘦𝘭𝘭𝘪 𝘢𝘯𝘥 𝘊𝘰𝘤𝘰 𝘊𝘩𝘢𝘯𝘦𝘭 is courtesy of Literary Criticism by Cat Ellington for 𝘛𝘩𝘦 𝘈𝘳𝘵𝘴©.

©𝟐𝟎𝟐𝟑 𝐐𝐮𝐢𝐥𝐥 𝐏𝐞𝐧 𝐈𝐧𝐤 𝐏𝐮𝐛𝐥𝐢𝐬𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐠. 𝐋𝐢𝐭𝐞𝐫𝐚𝐫𝐲 𝐂𝐫𝐢𝐭𝐢𝐜𝐢𝐬𝐦 𝐛𝐲 𝐂𝐚𝐭 𝐄𝐥𝐥𝐢𝐧𝐠𝐭𝐨𝐧 𝐟𝐨𝐫 𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐀𝐫𝐭𝐬. 𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐂𝐚𝐭 𝐄𝐥𝐥𝐢𝐧𝐠𝐭𝐨𝐧 𝐋𝐢𝐭𝐞𝐫𝐚𝐫𝐲 𝐂𝐨𝐥𝐥𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧. 𝐀𝐥𝐥 𝐫𝐢𝐠𝐡𝐭𝐬 𝐫𝐞𝐬𝐞𝐫𝐯𝐞𝐝.

I found this book utterly captivating. Outstanding read on many levels - excellent characterization, extremely atmospheric plus the use of color was original only adding to the story and characters. I appreciated all the characters. Each unique player contributed to the story as well as creating a colorful tapestry to the narrative. Lily was the main cog of the story. I truly felt her highs and lows. The way she carried herself was impressive. A pillar of strength and calm but again all the characters were impressive in their own right. Chanel and Schiaparelli's disrelish was clear and present. Overall, this book is a fabulous read demonstrating the ravages of war, loss, choices, and strength. With certitude, my reading expectations were more than fulfilled. Thoroughly enchanted from beginning to end. Well done.

Thank you to NetGalley for a free ARC in exchange for an honest review. Fashion in Paris is always an interesting topic, especially when it is about Coco Chanel. The drama and rivalry between Chanel and Elsa is very engaging. I couldn’t put this book down!

Oh I absolutely enjoyed this one! I knew a little about Coco Chanel's background, but this takes it up a notch and focuses on her rivalry with fellow female designer Elsa Schiaparelli and it was a fascinating story for sure. The other main narrative is pre- and post-WWII and how the world of haute couture is affected, specifically in Paris, which of course I was most fascinated with. Lily Sutter is an American who is visiting her brother in Paris, and ends up working for Elsa but also being somewhat friends with Coco, so she is involved with them both and their personal war, which is fierce, let me tell you.

I loved reading this one, the story flowed so well and the history of these houses was just fascinating, as was the rivalry between these two women, which as I said was very real and lasted the duration of their careers, even somewhat after the war it was still there a bit. Adding in the war and its effects on fashion and how they lasted afterwards was also so interesting, I just could not get enough of this story. There is so much more that I am not covering, but you really need to read this one for yourself.

Thank you to NetGalley and Berkley for the digital copy to review.

I enjoyed the mixture of subjects: the couture, the art, the narrator’s relationships with all the characters involved, descriptions of Paris, the use of colors and in every aspect of the book. It was raw, emotional, and just plain wonderful. I loved this book and cannot wait to read more by this author!

I wanted to like this book more than I did. I love a good story that includes Coco Chanel. This book had a good storyline, and I really enjoyed the characters throughout the book. However, I had a hard time staying focused when reading it because it seemed like there was a lot going on because it was just a bit too long. If this story had been about three fourths of the length, I think I would have enjoyed it a lot more.

I really enjoyed this story which referenced fashion designers and their world of extravagance. It was enchanting to view fashion history through the eyes and times of these famous designers. I was able to travel through time to a place and time so different from my own. This is a great escape novel!

I attempted several times to read this, including checking out a copy from the library, but it ended up not grabbing my attention beyond about 30%.

I really enjoyed Mistress of the Ritz, in which Coco Chanel is a character, so I found myself very interested in reading The Last Collection. It's a take on the intense rivalry between Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. The two women are opposites in every way and they are known for their intense competition with on another in a time where you were more likely to find women toeing the line and being proper. I like books that are a fictional take on real people and stories that take place in the WWII era without directly being about the war, so for that it works. The fictional Lily was an interesting way to explore the characters and I got immersed in their story. I also really enjoyed the description of the fashions and of the setting. Overall, a very enjoyable story about two formidable women.

Come for the glamour of the Paris fashion scene, stay for the legendary rivalry that pushed two incredible women to great lengths to prove that women can be creative, successful, and powerful. A book to totally lose yourself in!

I love historical fiction that creates a fictional story around real people and events. The Last Collection tells the story of icons Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli from the perspective of an American woman, Lily. Broken into three parts, the book uses vivid imagery throughout to accentuate the turmoil going on among the characters.

Chanel is a French fashion designer who promoted classic, sporty designs in neutral colors that freed women from the more restrictive corseted styles that had defined the last century. Meanwhile Schiaparelli came from a wealthy Italian family and promoted bright, colorful, and patterned designs that inspired more artistic, whimsical fashion with less focus on craftsmanship and structure. Both women were iconic and remain so to this day, though Chanel has more lasting notoriety due to the longevity of her brand.

The fictional American artist and widow Lily becomes embedded in the circles of both Chanel and Schiaparelli as their rivalry heats up. Lily ‘s character is important to the telling of the story, as she remains a more objective voice between the two powerful personalities, and often becomes a pawn in their feud. Lily views the world through creative expression, often associating colors with the essence of the events around her. I’ve always been drawn to fashion as art, and this story really showcased two iconic designers in that light.

And of course, there is the pre-WWII tensions in Paris unfolding at the same time as the story. I liked learning more about how Chanel and Schiaparelli were influenced by and agents of the period of time between the two wars. The rivalry between two women who may have different views on Fashion and politics, but are similar in their ambitions was truly a joy to read. The gossip, the secrets, the parties, and the fashion do not disappoint! A good mix of politics and drama, I loved this story!

Thank you to Berkley Publishing for my copy. Opinions are my own.

This is a great book!
We learn more about the fashion industry and the lives of Chanel and Schiaparelli.
The details of the garments are delicious.
What a fantastic read!

I really enjoyed this story! As a lover of fashion and good novels, The Last Collection really did it for me! It’s a quick read and interesting because of its proximity to reality.

Special thanks to Berkley for providing our copy in exchange for an honest & fair review.

This is a really written historical fiction novel. The writing is very atmospheric & any fashion lover &/or history buff will enjoy this one. What a time to be in Paris!

Thank you for the opportunity to be an early reader.

A fantastic look at two famous designers and rivals on the brink of World War 2. I enjoyed the writing as well as the historical setting and learning more about Chanel and Schiaparelli

Well written and interesting! I loved this story.I learned so much about the history of fashion....it made me want to look at the creations myself.

A deeply moving novel told from a the perspective of a young teacher, a widow, who gets pulled into the drama of Paris during the Nazi rise to power--and into the power struggle between two equally formidable women: Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Though Schiaparelli may not be as well known now as Chanel, through the middle of the 20th century, her colorful, fantastical designs were every bit as renowned as Chanel's, and a tough rivalry grew immediately between these two titans of fashion. Though heralded as a story of the fashionistas, it does revolve around Lily, who is enfolded into Schiap's circle when she visits her brother. Already having suffered a great loss, what follows for Lily is sure to wring the heart of any reader, and the WWII-era setting that is so popular right now takes on a new life and depth.

There are so many books to choose from and many go by season or the nearest holiday as a theme. The holidays might be over in January, but the Paris Haute Couture season will ongoing. That said, “The Last Collection” by Jeanne Mackin is a very appropriate choice.

Haute couture is the loftiest in the fashion world. It eclipses everything. This is where all fashion innovations begin. “The Last Collection” subtitled “A Novel of Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel,” Jeanne Mackin tells the story of the true to life rivalry of these two fashion icons who shaped the world with the clothes they design.

Not necessarily a treatise on the accomplishments of Schiaparelli and Chanel, (it is after all in fictionalized form), “The Last Collection” gives a glimpse of fashion history. Avid fashionistas know the story as history. In this book, Mackin made it more colorful thanks to her poetic storytelling.

I could not finish this book. I found the characters uninteresting and too little historical perspective to grasp the time and place of the plot. I quit at about 25% Clearly not my cup of tea.

If I'm not the right audience for this book, I'm not sure who is. Even though I love fashion, history, and feminism, The Last Collection fell flat. I was a bit put off by the competition between the designers.

Would recommend for fans of Beatriz Williams and other historical fiction fans who enjoy, and keep up with, dual timelines. Solid writing and the rivalry between Chanel and Schiaparelli was really interesting and not something I knew of before.