really interesting book with fun pictures. really makes you want to try surfing (and then at times not when he talks about some of the tragic stories. I did not finish it though because it was not one consistent story but more a lot of anecdotes put together in a book. so I'd say it's interesting to dive into for a chapter or so - maybe even to just pick out some that seem interesting but not really a cover to cover read.

If you want to dive into surf lore and culture thru the eyes of a force, this is a great book to pick up. It kick started a 'watch all the surf documentaries and shows' kick for me, Growing up aroound surf culture around gave me some insight into a lot of this but getting the personal touch from Gerry was awesome.

The perfect Summer beach book! Lopez’s tales of growing up on the beaches of Hawaii really is surfing history. His writing style is easy to read and his stories are informative and fun! His descriptions of other surfers, I think, is spot on. The best part about the book is the photographs. Thank you to NetGalley and Patagonia Books for the arc!! I loved this book!!!

As one who knows very little about surfing and have never heard of Gerry Lopez, I found this collection of stories and his life story very interesting. Admittedly, I couldn't tell you the difference between a pipeline in surfing and a pipeline that a plumber might be discussing, but that didn't matter as the stories made for terrific reading. When an author is both knowledgeable and very enthusiastic about the topic, that makes the book even better. Add in some very entertaining stories (that at times are terrifying) and it adds up to a very good read for anyone.

I read this on a Kindle tablet and the photos are just as good as the book, especially the color ones. Many times the photos on a Kindle don't come out as well as those in the print version, but that is not the case here. All the color photos are clear and beautiful.

A really good nonfiction book. Gerry Lopez is an inspiring surfer and this book is like sitting in front of a rocking chair while he tells you stories about his life and surfing. I have been a surfer for years and a fan of surfing for as long as I can remember so it was fascinating to learn more about his life. Occasionally this book was slow at times but I think that just added to its charm and the atmosphere of the book.

Gerry Lopez is a legend. What a fun read. Gerry has led a remarkable life and it was wonderful to read about all the places he has travelled to get that "perfect" wave. So many great stories. I enjoyed the photos as well. 4 stars!

What a fun read and I totally got what the author was intending for the reader to get. Only having surfed a couple times it is something you have to experience to get and this entire book I could feel and imagine what he was going through and feeling in each of the memories he told here. Maybe my only complaint is there was one or two times it felt like a story was being retold but it was never anything I hated because I just live vicariously through these books, documentaries and shows because I don't live near an area one can surf but I crave it. I will likely give this one another read which I rarely read books twice. The only reason it got 4 stars is the images and image headings showed up weirdly and randomly through the book and it could be the way it came through on my device or the pre-release digital version.