A very Star Wars-focused history of cosplay, padded somewhat by potted histories of related phenomena, including historical reenactments. Very much about franchise toleration and less about fair use, though also clearly written from a place of love. (There is discussion of the Lucasfilm litigation against the creator of the original Stormtrooper helmet; Lucasfilm won in the US—on trademark grounds—and lost in the UK—on copyright.) Significant quote from an insider: “We’re not interested in shutting anyone down unless we see someone trying to turn a real profit. When someone sells stormtrooper armor for under a grand, we know that no one’s making any money in that transaction. But as soon as you’re selling twenty or thirty suits a year for more than that, that’s when we want to come in and stop them.” Lucasfilm’s compromises were to “allow” a lot of cosplay, but prohibit appearances with politicians or “in places like strip clubs or bars,” while relying on cosplayers to help promote the franchise/take credit for things like visits to sick kids. Likewise, members of the main Star Wars cosplay organization could “make and sell their own merchandise like patches and coins internally, but not to the general public or for a profit.”
Other brief notes: Cosplay is another kind of performance, copying to achieve something new. Bjo Trimble shows up as an early technological innovator. I liked learning that, with the arrival of Blu-Ray, people identified parts of the original Boba Fett suit, including a dental expander and a Casio calculator pad. I also learned of the “cosplay music video,” a new-to-me cousin of the vid, described variously as “a trailer of sorts for the season’s cosplay and convention scene” and as reenacting or creating scenes but “stopping short of a proper fan film, which would have a longer story and plot. These instead act as more of a character study.”

The discussion of licensed versus unlicensed costume/parts makers is interesting though clearly muted; licensing means negotiations and slow going, as well as fitting into a niche so that you don’t compete with the mass market Halloween costumes. On the other hand, buying from a small business is risky, not just because of scammers but also because builders get overwhelmed by trying to turn a hobby into a business. There’s also a concept of unfair copying of work by cosplayer insiders—“recasting”—which insiders consider different from copying costumes from franchises themselves because it skips a bunch of hard work. And former cosplayers now can professionalize, not just among cosplayers but also by taking the skills they learned to make costumes, special effects and props on different pro productions. There, they may find frustration since cosplayers often have longer timelines and less interest in creating something that is imperfect but durable, cleanable, and adjustable enough to survive a shoot.

In the Year of Our Lord 2022, “cosplay” is a part of the vernacular, especially if you’re a sci-fi or fantasy fan. Only a handful of years ago, it was hotly debated in some subsections of fandom—costume-makers rejected the term as being an “anime” thing, or a “young fan” thing. Regardless of your personal stance, the act of making and wearing costumes to demonstrate your love of a character or series is long and storied… more so than many would think.

This new book by Andrew Liptak delves into (as the title states) the history of cosplay, but also the social and cultural aspects, the many facets of the craft, and the unique complexities of the hobby. His status as a member of the 501st Legion both places him in an ideal situation to write this history, and guarantees that much of it will be rooted in Star Wars. But it’s hardly a one-note book, paying significant homage to every influence.

Reading Cosplay: A History is an unexpected tumble down a historical rabbit hole, with the first section alone covering what many writers would consider the entire breadth of the topic. Liptak pushes further back, into historical reenacting and European street theater, finding what compels us to pursue the hobby. But his Stormtrooper helmet isn’t fitted with rose-colored lenses: the book acknowledges the harder issues that have come with the hobby’s growth, from copyright to consent. Whether you’re an avid cosplayer or completely in the dark, it’s an eye-opening read.

(This review was scheduled to be featured in the Fall 2022 issue of Sci Fi Magazine before the publication's cancellation, and would have received an A+.)

Wow, what a comprehensive look this is at the past and present of cosplay!

I've always loved dressing up, ever since my parents bought me a gorgeous Snow White dress that I was forbidden to wear except on Special Occasions, so I maybe got to wear it twice before outgrowing it as a child (which absolutely underscores for me the fact that you shouldn't save your pretty clothes for other people's "occasions" but should wear them when <i>you</i> feel you want to.) But wearing fancy dress or even a costume is quite different from cosplaying in this day and age. The closest I got to it was me being entirely meta and cosplaying as my own original character Soshi Idaurin after she made her way onto a Legend Of The Five Rings card, my prize for winning a role-playing competition at Origins some time before. I had no say in the art on my card, but did my best to combine the outfit depicted there with my character's later RP developments for the costume I eventually wore to GenCon a few years later. People stopped me for photos and I had a lovely time, tho cosplay was 100% incidental to why I was there. And in fairness, my outfit was more for the purposes of LARPing than anything else, tho I imagine in my case that there was a pretty thin line between the two to begin with.

Anyhoo, this is all to say that I've never super felt interested in dressing up as someone <i>else's</i> character but I can absolutely understand the impulse to get dressed in costume when it is, perhaps, less than socially acceptable to do so. Fortunately, it is getting more and more socially acceptable with the rise of geek culture, as Andrew Liptak masterfully illustrates in this very thorough look at the hobby. From the first European masquerade balls where Jules Verne encouraged attendees to dress as characters from his novels, to the first science-fiction fan conventions in mid 1900s America, to the very coining of the term "cosplay" by a Japanese writer seeking to translate the American scene for manga- and anime-loving readers back home, Mr Liptak vividly describes the birth of cosplay and its struggles towards mainstream acceptance along the way.

As a member of the 501st Legion, a group of diehard Star Wars fans who dress up as Stormtroopers and have strict standards for uniforms and "trooping", as their particular form of cosplay is known, Mr Liptak speaks knowledgeably from the inside. He's also done a ton of research, not only plunging into the historical archives but also interviewing dozens of cosplayers who've been active since at least the late 20th century. In addition to covering the sociological aspects (including the growth of communities dedicated to the hobby,) he touches on changes in technology and design and what that's meant and continues to mean for cosplayers. He also discusses the relationship between historical reenactments and modern cosplay and how the two often overlap.

If you're interested in learning more about cosplay, whether you're already part of the scene or just interested in finding out what all the fuss is about, this is a fantastic place to start. With color photographs throughout, it's a smart, thoughtful overview of how the hobby began and developed and where it is today. You won't find instructions on how to build your own costumes and props here -- there are plenty of other books that do that already -- but you will find a wonderful resource on the motivations and philosophies of the movement, as well as plenty of entertaining and encouraging anecdotes from experienced cosplayers through the ages.

Cosplay: A History by Andrew Liptak was published yesterday June 28 2022 by Gallery/Saga Press and is available from all good booksellers, including <a href="https://bookshop.org/a/15382/9781534455825">Bookshop!</a>

This is the most comprehensive dive into cosplay that I've ever seen. Written by an established enthusiast, this covers not only the history of cosplay (including the roots of fandom and conventions) but also construction, ethics, technology, monetization, and the future of cosplay. There is a definite focus on all of the good things that come from cosplay, including creative expression, the formation of communities, and the group experience of celebrating together.

I appreciated the joyful, affirming tone, though there was also a good exploration of issues plaguing cosplay communities such as racism, misogyny, and gatekeeping "true" fans. (It curled my hair when Adam Savage said, in his foreword, that cosplay was inclusive. I'm sure that's most people's ideal, but it would be hard to keep a straight face saying it's a reality as a POC or person in a larger body.) The ample selection of photos, both current and from the past, also make this fun to read. It would be a great pick for anyone interested in cosplay, cons, fandom or pop culture!

Many thanks to the publisher and NetGalley for the opportunity to read and review!