Member Reviews
A quick audio read from Scribd originals about the relationship between surfing and travel.
I appreciated that this was short, as it’s mostly compiled of brief and anecdotal contributions from surfers essentially just telling a story or two. Some are more entertaining than others and the author does a pretty good job of weaving these bits of content into his greater narrative.
In a way it’s a less obnoxious and far shorter version of Barbarian Days (I know it’s sacrilege for a surfer like me to say they disliked that book but, well, I disliked that book). The inclusion of different perspectives helped this book, and the author himself is infinitely more interesting and less, um, righteous.
Surfing is probably one of the few topics that translates better to film than to books, but this worked better than most attempts to put surf content into written narrative. I think the audiobook format probably helped with that as well.