Sir Edwin Hardy Amies KCVO (17 July 1909–5 March 2003)was an English fashion designer and businessman.His father worked for the London County Council.His mother was a saleswoman.In his teens,he adopted his mother's maiden name,Hardy—and always cited her as the inspiration for his chosen professional path.Amies was educated at Brentwood School, Essex,leaving in 1927.Initially,he wanted to be a journalist.R. D. Blumenfeld,the editor of the Daily Express,suggested that Hardy travel around Europe to gain some worldly experience.Amies spent 3 years in France and Germany,learning the languages,and performing jobs.Amies returned to England where,in 1930,he became a sales assistant in a ceramic wall-tile factory.It was Amies' mother's contacts in the fashion world and his flair for writing,which secured him his first fashion job.He vividly described a dress,in a letter written to a retired French seamstress,that brought Hardy to the attention of the owner of the Mayfair couture house Lachasse on Farm Street,Berkeley Square,as the wearer of the dress was the owner's wife.He became managing director in 1934.His most notable innovation during this epoch was to lower the waistline of women's suits.He left Lachasse in 1939 and joined the House of Worth in 1941.During WWII,with his language experience,Amies was called to serve in the SOE.Posted to Belgium,Amies worked with the various Belgian resistance groups and adapted names of fashion accessories for use as code words,while he organised sabotage assignments and arranged for agents to be parachuted behind enemy lines.In late 1945,Virginia,Countess of Jersey,who had been a client during his tenure at Lachasse,financed Hardy Amies' move to 14 Savile Row.In January,Amies established his own couture fashion house business.Hardy's brand became known for its classic and beautifully tailored clothes for men and women.Amies is renowned for his work for Queen Elizabeth II.The association began in 1950,and in 1955,the queen appointed him as one of her 3 official dressmakers.Amies was successful in business by being able to extract value from his designs,while not replicating his brand to the point of exploitation.

I was rather excited to see this book on NetGalley. Norman Hartnell remains one of the most popular British couturiers who has outfitted the late Queen but Hardy Amies was also one of Her Majesty’s favourite designers. And now we have a new updated look at the talented designer’s life.

Many of the favoured designers of the 1940s, 1950s, and 1960s served in the military during the Second World War, like Hartnell, Christian Dior, and Jacques Fath. Their service tends to be forgotten- I think that many authors who write general fashion history books like to focus on the fashion to the exclusion of all else. Unfortunately, this means that much of these designers’ life stories get lost.

Rowland covers Sir Hardy Amies’ full life, including a dedicated section on his military service. I will admit- I know relatively little about life in the military, so I appreciated the straightforward way that this section was written. It is an easy-to-read biography; it gives needed background to Amies’ later career.

Of course, I was also happy to read about Amies’ career as a designer. I appreciate that Rowland again took us through the entire trajectory of the House of Hardy, as a lot of journalists will simply start with his collection for Princess Elizabeth’s 1950 tour of Canada. (Not that I’m not excited to read about that collection in particular, but again, it is only part of the story!)

Rowland does not shy away from Amies’ personal life, either. Historically, many homosexual designers would understandably keep their private lives very private, as there were still laws at the time making same sex relationships a crime. However, she explores Amies’ relationship with Ken Fleetwood in depth; this relationship would last until Fleetwood’s death in the 1990s.

All in all, this is a fantastic biography on a lesser-discussed royal couturier!

This biography explores the life of Sir Hardy Amies—a World War II intelligence officer and a prominent British fashion designer. Amies navigated societal challenges as a gay man courageously contributing to the war effort at a time when his sexuality was illegal. After the war, his elite couture business and cultured, charismatic presence earned him fame, with clients from film stars to Queen Elizabeth II herself.

Amies led a long, interesting, and varied life. This biography does a good job of sharing his story with readers in an engaging and compassionate way.

Thanks, NetGalley, for the ARC I received. This is my honest and voluntary review.

very interesting read. he came from humble beginnings to dressing the queen. loved reading about the restrictions on dressing royalty.

The name of Sir Hardy Amies is well known in connection with the late Queen Elizabeth: he was one of her couturiers.

But there was a lot more to him than fashion. He was an intelligence officer during the Second World War and his work for the Belgian resistance effort. as part of the Special Operations Executive, was so significant that he was awarded l’Ordre de la Couronne, or Order of the Crown, by the Belgian Government in 1948.

Not only did Sir Hardy conduct these operations, but he also simultaneously developed his burgeoning fashion business through the British Board of Trade’s drive to promote UK manufacturing throughout the conflict.

He was a man who at once epitomised and challenged the reality of being homosexual in an era when society was deeply unaccepting. He was thrust into what was an overtly macho and potentially hostile environment and, against that backdrop, made a valuable and courageous contribution to the war effort.

The Queen was obviously aware of his proclivities: when she knighted him, he said he expected he was the first queen she had honoured, and she laughed.

A well researched and fascinating account of an enigmatic man.

Thank you to NetGalley, the publisher and the author for an ARC of this book. This is my honest review.

Sir Hardy Amies was an interesting man who led an accomplished life. The book goes from his childhood until he passes away at age 93. He served in WWII as an intelligence officer and then opened his own fashion house and eventually chose clothes suitable for Queen Elizabeth II. He spent time with many famous celebrities and people of influence.

As a gay man his time in the forces and even afterwards were spent hiding that part of himself in some ways. The armed forces at that time was under a "don't ask, don't tell" mentality.

The parts about working for the Queen were very interesting. I only wish there were more of them. I thought from the front cover, that it would be a large part of the book, and I didn't feel it was.

I also felt the author referenced Sir Hardy Amies own books far too frequently when looking for a quote or trying to make a point. Perhaps I was just not the target audience for the book. I think people interested in fashion design and the historical aspects of it, as well as people living in the UK who may know of his designs, would really enjoy this indept look at the SOE Hero. For me, however, it fell a little flat.

Sir Hardy Amies was certainly an amazing man. This is an enjoyable, thoroughly researched and well-written biography of the famous designer who was actually the head of the Belgian section of the SOE. I found this part of the book the most interesting, especially Amies’s being haunted by what happened to some of his operatives.

I also liked reading about his friendships with famous people, especially the Queen, the descriptions of his beautiful clothes and his love of Australia. However, I felt that the book was a bit bogged down by too much information about his employees sometimes, although they were certainly characters!

I received this free ebook from NetGalley in return for an honest review.

Hard to review but I loved reading it. Hardy Amies had one amazing life. He was involved in the Second World War and then did haute couture for the wealthy and helped dress the Queen etc. The parts of how to dress royalty and the restrictions etc were really good.. He was gay in time when you could not be. That in its self makes part of the read. When you think of the era we live. I loved hearing about fashion brands and how they started. A very interesting read.