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Fashion journalist and historian Nancy MacDowell cracks open the past with a meticulously researched book that brings the history of American fashion to life. Readers learn the history of fashion both before WW II and about the remarkable creativity, ingenuity and risk-taking women in America during and after the war that revolutionized the fashion industry. MacDowell’s writing, while chock full of details, is never bogged down but full of inspiration and excitement as we learn about women fashion designers coming into their own. I enjoyed this book tremendously and learned so much about fashion history, design, fashion retail, marketing and more.
Many thanks to St. Martin’s Press and NetGalley for the advance reviewer’s copy.
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This was such an interesting book. It was a topic that I never knew had such a rich history! I can't wait for more people to read it, I want to discuss it with them.
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I was pleasantly surprised to read so many interesting historical stories about fashion trends going back over 200 years as part of the main story. Bold, colorful, imaginative people are well represented. Thanks to #Netgalley and #Empressesofseventhavenue for advanced digital copy.
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When Paris fell to the Nazis in World War II, French fashion became unobtainable to American women. While American designers didn’t specialize in haute couture like the French did, they did design amazing, comfortable, affordable clothes that could be purchased off the rack in department stores. Nancy MacDonell’s Empresses of Seventh Avenue tells the fascinating story of these designers and the merchants, reporters, and influencers who made American ready-to-wear everyone’s go to fashion choice in the 1940s and beyond.
Ms. MacDonell’s book is a true gem: a meticulously researched history that reads like a novel. From the showrooms of Paris, where American designers copied the newest looks to bring to the US, to the design studios of designing giants like Claire McCardell to the editorial offices of Harper’s Bazaar and American Vogue where fashion tastes were dictated, reviewed and blessed, this book is a fascinating journey in the world of fashion. I found myself looking up the designers and their clothes online while I was reading, which brings me to my only complaint. I wish there were photos of the designs and designers to help visualize the clothes.
Other than that, this book is absolutely amazing!
I received an advance review copy of this book for free and am leaving this review voluntarily.
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4.25 An extremely interesting portrayal of the fashion industry from the times of Louis XIV when he essentially made Paris the “hub” for international fashion and haute couture and then focusing on the WWII and subsequent years when Paris was off limits due to the war.and the ascendancy of the American fashion industry largely steered by women. I was not aware of many of these trailblazing women (e.g., designers, journalists, editors, prescient managers, etc) but they contributed to a vibrant and permanent change in the fashion industry. Very well researched and easily readable. Thank you to Netgalley for providing me an advance copy in exchange for a candid and unbiased review.
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This was an interesting book I learned a lot about different Fashions before the war and after the war were two this was interesting because they were doing different things with different ideas I learned a lot how these women made these clothes copying the fashion designers in Paris there's also interesting when they used to dress the dolls up and close to show what the new ideas were coming about goodies book was another one this was these women also struggle too because the men do not really accept them at first when the war started everything came to Holt in Paris so they had to rely on American Ingenuity to design their own clothes they were also great Skechers too because they would go to these shows and sketch things I learned a lot about how clothes were made and how they allowed over time
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Empresses of Seventh Avenue is an engrossing look into the women of the American fashion industry, with a focus on the mid-twentieth century. Honestly, most of these names were new to me, but I’m glad I know their stories now.
With a brief foray into how Paris became the epicenter of fashion and then a turn into how fashion changed for America as Paris fell under Nazi control during the Second World War, this book not only details the trajectory of fashion as things pivoted from speciall- tailored haute couture to a more ready-to-wear aesthetic but also presents the stories of fascinating feminist figures in their own right.
Although the book does get into the weeds a bit with all the details, it kept my attention from beginning to end.
This would be good for fans of Natasha Lester’s fiction, especially The Three Lives of Alix St. Pierre and The Disappearance of Astrid Bricard, who want to dig even more into the history of the fashion industry.
I received an advance copy of the ebook from St. Martin’s Press and NetGalley. All review opinions are my own.
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𝘛𝘩𝘦 𝘌𝘮𝘱𝘳𝘦𝘴𝘴𝘦𝘴𝘴 𝘰𝘧 𝘚𝘦𝘷𝘦𝘯𝘵𝘩 𝘈𝘷𝘦𝘯𝘶𝘦 by @nancy.macdonell is a captivating exploration of the birth of American fashion during World War II. This book delves into how the Nazi invasion of France in 1940 severed the world’s access to Parisian fashion, compelling New York-based designers, retailers, editors, and photographers to rise to the occasion. This pivotal moment led to the creation of “the American Look,” characterized by sophistication, modernity, comfort, and affordability. ⠀
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MacDonell’s narrative is rich with historical detail and personal anecdotes, bringing to life the extraordinary women who played crucial roles in establishing American fashion on the global stage. The book highlights figures like Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, and others who transformed the industry from one of anonymity to one of global recognition. ⠀
The author’s meticulous research and engaging writing style makes this book a must-read for anyone interested in fashion history. MacDonell not only chronicles the evolution of American fashion but also provides insightful commentary on the cultural and political forces that shaped it. ⠀
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I found it to be a fascinating and enlightening read that celebrates the ingenuity and determination of the women who revolutionized American fashion.⠀
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I love reading books about strong women and those who break the mold especially when it is nonfiction. The Empresses are those in the 1940’s who changed the face and business of the IUS fashion industry. Most of these women I had not heard of but appreciate the challenges they ensured to get ahead. They shaped fashion from Paris’s haut couture focus to the US’s focus on mix and match and more leisure wear that we are accustomed to today. Thoroughly enjoyed learning about this time in an industry and women who shaped it. Thank you, NetGalley for an advanced copy.
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Thank you St. Martin's Press for allowing me to read and review Empresses of Seventh Avenue -- World War II, New York City, and the Birth of American Fashion by Nancy MacDonell on NetGalley.
Published: 08/27/24
Stars: 3.5
This is a detailed book full of names, places, dates, styles and all things business. I picked this thinking story unfortunately this is the opposite. I would have loved this many (okay many, many) years ago while in college and debating; one source with endless possibilities. A true treasure when you are carrying your own resources.
I could see gifting this to an eclectic nonfiction reader.
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I found the book interesting but wish photos had been included of all the different designers & fashions that were mentioned.
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A fascinating look, and how American designers and fashion critics managed to wrestle the chokehold on style awayfrom Paris in the 1940s.
Always known as the fashion at the center, Paris kept a tight lock on what was in style for centuries until the World War II Nazi occupation of France cut ties with the rest of the world.
Without Paris to look too, New York designers and fashion riders took up the mantle and created a space for themselves in the fashion hierarchy.
Tell the story how this is done the hard work of many individuals from designers to buyers writers fashion icons to make America a place to look towards as a fashion epicenter. For this time, they only had an industry built on re-creating design in the Paris fashion houses.
Truly inspiring story of how American makes a place that makes a name for themselves in fashion. I think this type of history where women take the lead absolutely fascinating.
I really enjoyed this book and all of the fascinating information, but I did find myself, wishing that they were corresponding images to go with the big names and the big fashion that made it all possible.
The audiobook narrated by Gail Shalan the perfect companion for this book. Shalan’s enthusiasm for the topic blends well with Nancy McDonnell’s storytelling narrative. I found this very easy and enjoyable to listen to.
Thanks to St. Martin’s Press and Macmillan Audio for the respective book and audio review copies.
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Fashion is at once universal and deeply ingrained in popular culture, influencing everything from politics and sports to music and movies. Social media has accelerated its transformation, making it more diversified and embracing than ever. However, without the widespread use of ready-to-wear clothing, popularized during World War II, fashion as we know it today would not be possible. The once scandalous lexicon of American fashion–promoting the coexistence of comfort and style and multipurpose clothing–is now the standard by which we all dress.
Haute couture's brief disappearance due to the war years proved that the French Legend only existed if its premise was accepted. The American fashion industry promised that everyone could be beautifully dressed. The war that began as a fashion emergency became the greatest opportunity for the American fashion industry. The women who ruled Seventh Avenue turned it into a revolution.
Situated in the heart of the American fashion industry, a square mile of midtown Manhattan where over 5,000 companies created and manufactured nearly all of the country's clothing, The Empresses of Seventh Avenue pays homage to the mid-twentieth century moguls in one of the few industries that gave women the chance to wield influence and command respect beyond the baby in their arms and the ring on their finger. Nancy MacDonell’s Empresses of Seventh Avenue shimmers with pizzazz. Grab a copy and get ready, set, sew!
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Before World War II, Paris was the fashion capital of the world. American manufacturers not only gained inspiration from the leading haute couture designers but often copied the designs outright using lesser fabrics and other cost-cutting measures. Once in a while an innovative American designer came forth, but it was rare that he or she received any name recognition. That all changed during the war when the Paris fashion houses were cut off from the rest of the world. This was an opportunity to make New York City the new center of fashion. Designers like Claire McCardell and Elizabeth Hawes were given the chance to innovate by women like Dorothy Shaver of Lord & Taylor. The "American Look" was supported by the influential fashion magazines with its creative editors and photographers. Eleanor Lambert became the first fashion publicist and was responsible for creating New York Fashion Week, the Met Gala and much more.
Author Nancy MacDonell, a fashion writer and editor, and Adjunct Professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology, is well qualified to tell this story. Her well researched Empresses of Seventh Avenue aims to ensure that the contributions of the women in this book are not lost to history. Today's designers owe so much to these trailblazers. If you have an interest in the world of fashion and its history, be sure to check this book out.
4.25 stars.
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Thank you St. Martin’s Press for the #gifted ARC and thank you Macmillan Audio for the #gifted ALC of Empresses of Seventh Avenue!
𝐓𝐢𝐭𝐥𝐞: 𝐄𝐦𝐩𝐫𝐞𝐬𝐬𝐞𝐬 𝐨𝐟 𝐒𝐞𝐯𝐞𝐧𝐭𝐡 𝐀𝐯𝐞𝐧𝐮𝐞: 𝐖𝐨𝐫𝐥𝐝 𝐖𝐚𝐫 𝐈𝐈, 𝐍𝐞𝐰 𝐘𝐨𝐫𝐤 𝐂𝐢𝐭𝐲, 𝐀𝐧𝐝 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐁𝐢𝐫𝐭𝐡 𝐨𝐟 𝐀𝐦𝐞𝐫𝐢𝐜𝐚𝐧 𝐅𝐚𝐬𝐡𝐢𝐨𝐧
𝐀𝐮𝐭𝐡𝐨𝐫: 𝐍𝐚𝐧𝐜𝐲 𝐌𝐚𝐜𝐃𝐨𝐧𝐞𝐥𝐥
𝐍𝐚𝐫𝐫𝐚𝐭𝐨𝐫: 𝐆𝐚𝐢𝐥 𝐒𝐡𝐚𝐥𝐚𝐧
𝐏𝐮𝐛 𝐃𝐚𝐭𝐞: 𝐀𝐮𝐠𝐮𝐬𝐭 𝟐𝟕, 𝟐𝟎𝟐𝟒
The Empresses of Seventh Avenue was a very informative and interesting look back at the American fashion industry. I really enjoyed getting know more about the history behind the women who put fashion on the world stage and created such an amazing industry. I loved how MacDonell tells the story of how the Nazi invasion of France impacted the American fashion industry, and I loved all of the details and research that went into this book. This is a must read for any lover of history and fashion! It kept my attention the entire time and I truly found it super interesting!
🎧I listened to the audiobook, narrated by Gail Shalan. I thought she was a good choice for this audiobook, and would definitely recommend this one on audio. I was able to get lost in the history behind the American fashion industry and I really enjoyed reading this one with my ears!
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Empresses of Seventh Avenue
By: Nancy MacDonell
Review Score: 4 Stars
Boogie’s Bulletpoints
•It’s so interesting to follow the history of the Nazis taking over Paris (and the impact on fashion).
•I learned so much about how fashion is today, thanks to these strong women who pushed their own ideas forward.
•While a non fiction book, this immersive book reads like fiction.
•So many of these women were trendsetters compared to what was common at the time!
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Empresses of Seventh Avenue was kindly provided as an ARC by NetGalley and St. Martin’s Press. Thank you for allowing me to enjoy this wonderful book!
This book was so interesting! I loved learning about these women who, when they could not get their fashion from Paris anymore, had to figure out how to forge their own paths, therefore creating a fashion industry in America.
I am a big fan of history, but I don’t think I ever stopped to think about how the Nazi invasion of France would impact the global access to French fashion. I loved learning more about that.
I also found it interesting how these women brought forth all of the ideas we see today; department stores, capsule wardrobes, photography, and American fashion in general.
If you like history, or fashion, or both, check this book out!
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In the tradition of The Barbizon and The Girls of Atomic City, fashion historian and journalist Nancy MacDonell chronicles the untold story of how the Nazi invasion of France gave rise to the American fashion industry.
Thank you Netgalley, St. Martin’s Press and Macmillan Audio for sending me an ARC of this book! I enjoyed this book. I wasn’t sure if I would like this book at first because I don’t follow fashion and I don’t know anything about it but I like watching music award shows with my mom and seeing what the musicians are wearing and then talking to her about what they’re wearing. I learned a lot. It gave me a different perspective of fashion that I wouldn’t normally get from just watching award shows on TV. I think this book would have been better if it had pictures and it bothered me at first that I didn’t have pictures of the fashion to look at while reading this book but as I continued reading this book, I got used to not having pictures to look at and I just tried my best to visualize what the fashion looked like during the WWII era. Will I read more books about fashion? Maybe. This was the first fashion history book I’ve ever read. I think it would be interesting to learn about how people dressed during other time periods besides WWII. Would I recommend this book? Yes if you’re interested in reading a book about the history of fashion during WWII without any pictures to look at. If you don’t care about fashion history then don’t read this book.
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Very well researched, this is the story of how NYC came to be the Fashion capital of the world when Paris was shut down in WWII by the Nazis, and the (mostly) women who made that happen. Empresses of Seventh Avenue tells the story of the designers, magazine fashion editors, the NYC manufacturing district and more, who stepped up and made American fashion and ready to wear great, during a time when most women looked only to Paris for women's wear designs. A tad academic at times, but very informative and interesting, it also contains an abbreviated but fascinating history of fashion. Many thanks to NetGalley and St. Martin's for the e-arc. A solid 4 star read.
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Thank you to NetGalley and St. Martin's Press for the ARC of Empresses of Seventh Avenue: World War II, New York City, and the Birth of American Fashion by Nancy MacDonnell. This book is a captivating and meticulously researched exploration of a pivotal era in fashion history. This book takes readers on a vibrant journey through the streets of New York City during World War II, a time when American fashion indeed came into its own.
The author expertly weaves together the stories of the pioneering women who shaped the industry, painting a vivid picture of the challenges and triumphs they faced. The narrative is rich with historical detail, bringing to life the creativity and resilience that defined the birth of American fashion.
This book's ability to blend fashion with broader social and cultural histories makes it exceptional. The impact of the war on the industry, the rise of New York as a global fashion capital, and the evolution of American style are all explored with depth and nuance.
Whether you're a fashion enthusiast, a history buff, or enjoy a well-told story, Empresses of Seventh Avenue is a must-read. It's not just a book about fashion; it's a tribute to the visionary women who transformed an industry and left an indelible mark on American culture.
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Being from and having lived in New York for most of my life, I was always curious about how the city became a "fashion capital". This book tells you the why, the when, and especially who made this happen. These women were remarkable! I learned so much and have already spread the word to everyone I know to read this book!