Twenty-six years ago, I did the BC (big chop): I cut my hair very, very short, removing all of my chemically treated hair. There was no natural hair movement then—at least, not that I knew of—and I had no access to internet forums or You-Tube tutorials. What I did have was hair fatigue: I had had relaxed hair for much of my life until then, had recently explored a fun cut (short back, and a bob), and now had what I thought was over-processed hair. I also a friend who had always been natural and who knew what to do with her hair. It felt like it was time.

Years later, for a time, it was inevitable that any Black woman who lived online would get caught up in the natural hair discourse: whether to do the BC or to transition, the pros of the so-called LOC method, what products were best for naturalistas, and so on. We were inundated with pictures of TWA (teeny weeny afros), of twist-outs, of women measuring the progress of natural hair growth. We learnt all of the jargon. We scrolled for methods of styling whatever length we had. And for anyone watching, it was clear that this was a revolution happening all over the world, and online.

As indeed Chelsea Mary Elise Johnson has recorded in this book, her wonderful and truly very accessible analysis of the natural hair movement, covering its history, impact, and implications. Black hair is historically fraught: it’s been made into an expression of Black identity, for better or for worse, by Black people themselves and by those who would control or subdue them. Johnson traces the evolution of Black hair as expression in the US from the time of slavery, through entrepreneurship at the beginning of the twentieth century and Black Power and the Civil Rights movement in the 1960s, to the natural hair movement at the turn of the century and into the 21st. She deals adeptly with aspects from feminism to misogynoir, the economics and geopolitics of Black hair, the natural movement as a wellness project, Black hairstyles as protest, and, in thinking about colourism and texturism, who can be considered natural.

This is a wonderfully compact yet all-encompassing assessment of a very complex subject. Johnson keeps it personal while presenting cogent arguments and analysis. Her interviews of women across the Black diaspora make her analysis inclusive; too often, analyses like these become mired in the US experience—understandably. *Natural* is a book everyone should read, and then keep on their shelf as a cultural reference. It will be relevant for years to come.

Many thanks to NYU Press and to NetGalley for early access.

A Hair-Raising Read

Natural by Chelsea Mary Elise Johnson is a fascinating exploration of the cultural and political significance of Black hair. It's more than just a book about hairstyles; it's a deep dive into the history, politics, and social implications of Black hair.

Johnson expertly weaves together personal anecdotes, historical context, and cultural commentary to create a compelling narrative. She delves into the complexities of the natural hair movement, examining the motivations behind it and the challenges faced by Black women who choose to embrace their natural texture.

One of the most striking aspects of the book is its exploration of the intersection of beauty standards, race, and gender. Johnson highlights the ways in which societal expectations have shaped Black women's hair choices and the impact of these choices on their self-esteem and identity.

I particularly appreciated the book's focus on the economic and political dimensions of the natural hair movement. Johnson discusses the rise of natural hair entrepreneurship and the challenges faced by Black-owned businesses in the beauty industry. She also explores the role of social media in shaping beauty trends and empowering Black women to embrace their natural hair.

If you're interested in learning more about the cultural and political significance of Black hair, I highly recommend Natural. It's a thought-provoking and informative read that will leave you with a deeper understanding of the issues surrounding beauty, identity, and social justice.

Thanks, NetGalley! I really appreciate the opportunity to read and review this book.

As someone who studied history and loved learning about the social history behind events this is the perfect mix of history of hair with points of the social aspects of hair.

I found this very educational on many different levels. I learned so much from the author of this book and I know that she didn't have to share this knowledge and history, I will hands down be shouting from the rooftops about how great this work is for resources on history, social history, social constructs in society, and hair. I have never found such a piece as riveting as I did this.

This book is definitely needed. I have the tightest girl pattern in my immediate family and it took me a long time to learn how to only manage my hair, but embrace and love my hair. I appreciate how in depth this book goes into the natural hair community.

A very solid exploration of the history and politics of Natural Hair in the Black community. We have already ordered a copy for our library system.

This book focuses on black hair and the journey, Us as black woman are always on a hair journey wether it Locs, loose natural, relaxed , etc . This book dives into the black hair history and understanding the culture surrounding the hair of the black woman. This is a great book to read for all black women and black girls.

This book is a very positive book which focuses on black hair and the journey, it dives into the politics history and understanding the culture surrounding the hair of the black woman

I wish this book were available when I was writing my dissertation some years ago. I had a part about hair and politics and my argument would have benefited from the discussions in this book.
The writer takes us on a journey about Black women's hair and allows us to zoom in on the natural hair movement.
I appreciate the range of methods the writer has used to conduct her research and structure her argument.
This is a much-needed conversation and I am glad to have stayed more informed and aware thanks to this book.

Loved the way that black her was discussed. Growing up as a black girl with 4c hair it wasn’t the easiest hair type to have. I love that girls will grow up knowing that black hair is beautiful no matter the type you have.

A beautiful perspective on how the natural hair movement is a way of taking back bodily autonomy and beauty standards.

This book is an amazing look at how hair is more than just about looks, it can be spiritual, cultural, political. There is an entire natural hair movement out there full of women who are embracing their natural hair for many reasons such as self care or challenging racist beauty standards. It was very interesting to read about how embracing natural hair is a way for black women to love and accept themselves and also challenge a beauty industry that both criticizes and exploits them.