Title: The Dressmakers of London
By: Julia Kelly
Pub. Date: Feb. 18, 2025

Genre:
Fiction, Historical

Red Flags:
War, Domestic Abuse, Death,

Summary/Review:
The talented Julia Kelly (A Favorite Author) does it again, in her own original way! Her writing is engaging, emotional yet somehow informative. The reader walks away with great knowledge of unfamiliar parts of history!!!

Estranged sisters, Isabelle and Sylvia inherit their mother’s dress shop after her passing, and the reader is quickly engaged on a journey of love and healing. The themes of longing for love and connection, forgiveness of past mistakes, tenderness during adversity, and sacrifice for loved ones immerse the reader into this WWII historical novel with bits of informative knowledge into unknown parts of history. From the introduction of Conscription to the clothing restrictions for everyone during this time period. The dynamic characters are relatable, the reader feels connected to the family drama, the conflicts of wartime are suspenseful yet captivating. Highly Recommend Julia Kelly and The Dressmakers of London!

Thank you to Julia Kelly, Gallery Books, and Netgalley for the opportunity of an Advanced Readers Copy. I am leaving this review voluntarily.

#JuliaKelly
#TheDressmakersofLondon
#GalleryBooks
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#NetGalley

Thanks to NetGalley and Gallery Books for a digital advance reader's copy. All comments and opinions are my own.

Loved this London-based World War II novel of sisters, fashion, and forgiveness. This page-turning historical fiction alternated between the two sisters’ points of view. Additionally, letters the sisters wrote to each other heightened the story’s progress and added depth to their relationship.

While this well-written story takes place during World War II in London, it doesn’t focus on the Blitz. Yes, there are blackout curtains and all sorts of ration restrictions. But in addition to Izzie’s experiences as a conscripted young woman, the story alternates with Sylvia’s efforts to keep their mother’s dress shop afloat. Author Julia Kelly’s expert research of rationing regarding clothing, fabric, and even the dress designs reveal a lesser-known component of the time period.

The book contains the resilient concept of “legacy” as the estranged sisters agree to work together to save the dress shop they unexpectedly inherit from their mother. Themes of class, gender inequality, and romance are woven into the novel to provide a satisfying and heartwarming ending. I highly recommend!

I have read all of Julia Kelly's books and really enjoyed them, so I was really pleased to be able to read this one. As usual, the character development is excellent. Julia always does her research, and she describes wartime London really well. I liked that part of this story was told using letters that the main characters were writing to each other. I look forward to recommending this one to our patrons.

In this story, sisters learn how to love and respect each other and the strength of each one. It seems like we often hold our siblings to the young person they once were and don't allow them to mature and develop. Theis book explores the evolution of a sisters and is set in WWII London.

The Dressmakers of London is cut from a perfect pattern, fitting pieces of reconciliation and family history right alongside personal reinvention to create an elegant, delightful outcome. Julia Kelly tailors this World War II novel of two sisters, Sylvia and Izzie learning to trust each other again, with Izzie’s intriguing assignment in a barrage balloon unit in the WAAF-Women’s Auxiliary Air Force.
Food rationing and coupons are standard in WWII novels, but Julia Kelly includes fascinating details of cloth rationing that started in 1941 and lasted until four years after the war ended. The Cloth Utility Scheme regulated pleats, hemlines, buttons, and cuffs on trousers. This regulation had a huge impact on Mrs. Shelton’s Fashions and Izzie’s design dreams, which Kelly stitches seamlessly into the suspense of the shop’s survival.
The characters reveal true feelings through letters that move the plot while adding anticipation and hope. Readers learn of war details and the budding relationship from letters between young Izzie and American Staff Sergeant Jack Perry from Iowa. On the “sister front” rebuilding trust occurs slowly as Sylvia and Izzie share personal and quite different memories of their mother after their father died. Sylvia’s marriage to Horrible Hugo is another thread in the unraveled fabric of Izzie’s life; coming of age, sketching her own designs, and running the dress shop. There are some especially poignant revelations in situations between Sylvia’s socialite friends and the wise Lady Winman that knit life lessons into the narrative.
The Dressmakers of London tells of a mother’s bequest that leads to emotional, surprising results and happenings-a deep feeling for legacy and family heritage. Sylvia and Izzie would agree that their story is “an honest to goodness proper triumph!”

Izzie and Sylvia’s mother has passed away. Izzie was sure her mother would leave her the dress shop. She has worked there her whole life. But, when Izzie realizes her mother left it to her AND Sylvia, old wounds and hurts begin to smolder.

This was very close to a 5 star read for me. The big issue I had was with Izzie. And y’all, this is minor. She just got on my nerves a bit with her stubborn drama against her sister. Yes, I understood her actions. It just occurred a bit too much…in my opinion. But like I said…minor issue.

I did love Sylvia though! She truly came into her own in these pages. She took over that shop and did just what she was supposed to do…keep it alive. And she did not let society or her husband stop her.

I enjoyed the history in this one as well. I loved learning about all the restrictions placed on the garments in WWII. I also enjoyed Izzie and her WAAF duties. The way the author wove all these details into this story of sisters and old family wounds really added to the drama and intensity.

Need a good tale about sisters and new beginnings…THIS IS IT! Grab your copy today.

I received this novel from the publisher for a honest review.

I loved everything about this well=researched and heartwarming World War II story! At the heart of the story are two estranged sisters, who are brought together again at the unexpected death of their mother. Sylvia, the eldest, had left years ago when she married what she thought was the perfect man. Isabella ((Izzy) remained at home and became immersed in learning everything she could about designing and sewing for her mother's dress shop. Circumstances complicated by the war, rationing and conscription, as well as their desire to save the dress shop created by their mother bring the sisters closer together. It was fascinating to read of the conscription of women in England, and their various fields of training, the rationing that affected all areas of life, and the dedication of all British citizens to winning the War. Julia Kelly has written a fascinating book, with memorable characters that tell a story of love, hope, and the determination of two sisters to rediscover the bond they share, when their lives are changed by the war and their own personal tragedies. The author's notes at the end are quite informative to the history behind the story. Thank you to the author, publisher and Netgalley for my advance copy. The opinions of this review are my own.

1941

Maggie Shelton was left a young widow with two daughters, Sylvia and Isabelle (Izzie). She struggled hard and managed to make Mrs. Shelton’s Fashions a solid dress shop. Mrs. Shelton and her helper, Miss Reid, worked hard to create designs for women who preferred a dress created just for them. Sylvia is several years older than Izzie and helped care for her when she was young. However, Sylvia was just not suited to sewing to the chagrin of her mother. Izzie, on the other hand, took right to it.

Sylvia meets a wealthy man, Hugo Pearsall, a Harley Street doctor, and when they marry, Izzie and her mother feel that Sylvia has abandoned them for her much better life. For several years now, there has not been much communication between them. So, when Mrs. Shelton dies suddenly, Izzie begrudgingly tells Sylvia who insists that she will be at the funeral. While there, Mrs. Shelton’s solicitor tells them that they must come for the reading of the woman’s will which reveals that she has left the dress shop to both of her daughters. Izzie is furious and feels it should all be hers as she is the one who has worked there.

When Izzie is informed that due to the war all women 20-30 years old are conscripted into Auxiliary Territorial Service, she has no other choice than to ask Sylvia to run the dress shop for her. Thus begins a barrage of letters between the sisters as Sylvia weeds her way through her mother’s messy bookkeeping and works to keep the shop going. In the exchange of letters and ideas, Izzie starts to lose her animosity toward her sister.

This is a wonderful story of forgiveness and understanding. Two sisters learn to explain to one another how life presented itself to each of them when they were growing up. Misconceptions are put to rest as they learn to love and respect each other again. A delightful story that is also quite educational of the time period of World War II in England. I loved this book and hope that others will read and enjoy it as well.

Copy provided by NetGalley and Edelweiss in exchange for a fair and honest review.

Set in WWII London, The Dressmakers of London weaves a heartwarming story about sisterhood, self-discovery and new beginnings.
Isabelle (Izzie) Shelton has barely seen or heard from her sister, Sylvia, since Sylvia married a rick Harley Street doctor and left home over 10 years ago. Izzie has helped her mother run Mrs. Sheton's Fashions, a neighborhood dressmaking shop, dreaming of the day it becomes hers. That day comes sooner than expected and with a twist: Mrs. Shelton passes away, leaving the shop to both of her daughters, equally. To make matters worse, Izzie is conscripted into service soon after, so she has to swallow her resentment and bitterness toward her sister and ask her to run the shop while she is gone. Sylvia is going through turmoil of her own, having recently discovered that her husband is having an affair, but she is determined to help her sister to make up for basically abandoning her years ago. Over the course of the story, Sylvia rediscovers her own self worth, while Izzie blossoms in a new environment. I loved the characters, and the story captivated me from start to finish.

A different kind of WWII story.
A woman who is trying to survive and bringing up two daughters by opening a clothing store.
With the war and clothing rations she has a challenging time to keep afloat. The oldest girl cannot wait to get out of this situation and when a doctor proposes she accepts and turns her back to her family at once. The youngest tries to impress her mother with her sewing and designing skills but does not get the encouragement she deserves. The mother wants to stick to the designs that has been bringing in the clientele for ages and reduces Izzie’s work to menial tasks.
The untimely dead of the mother has the sister suddenly co-owing the store. Isabelle and Sylvia have a tough time to overcome their resentment of each other. Everything changes when Izzie gets conscripted into the WAAF. For how it all develops you need to read the book. I enjoyed reading this story about family, love, siblings, fashion, and the rules of ration coupons during the war.

THE DRESSMAKERS OF LONDON is the latest outstanding historical novel from Julia Kelly. I have enjoyed every one of this author’s books and this one is no exception. Set during World War II in London, it is a story of two estranged sisters who inherit their mother’s dress shop when she dies unexpectedly. Isabelle Shelton has always played a role in Mrs. Shelton’s Fashions, the dress shop owned by her mother. An aspiring designer herself, Izzie hopes that one day her mother will give her more responsibility for the family business. Izzie’s sister, Sylvia, has never wanted anything to do with the shop. Years ago, she married a wealthy doctor and turned her back on her humble roots. The sisters are stunned to learn that their mother left the shop to both of them. Izzie wants to buy Sylvia out, but instead she is conscripted into the WAAF. The only way to keep Mrs. Shelton’s legacy alive is to entrust its operation to Sylvia until the end of the war. As the sisters navigate their respective fates, they are forced to revisit old wounds and to slowly rebuild their fragile relationship. I really enjoyed learning more about the rationing of clothing during the war and the strict requirements for what types of garments could be made. Don’t miss the Author’s Note at the end for even more detail on this topic. This was a beautifully-written and heart-warming story and I highly recommend it. Thank you to the author, publisher and NetGalley for the chance to read and review an early copy.

The Dressmakers of London by Julia Kelly is a novel that takes place during World War II. Ms. Kelly writes yet another heartfelt novel about two sisters who inherit their mother’s dress shop.

Izzie and Sylvia are sisters. Izzie loves to draw and sketch fashion. Fashion that is too modern for her mother. She continues to draw but hides her drawings in the dress shop. Izzie has helped her mother in the dress shop since she was old enough. Sylvia is Izzie’s older sister. As soon as Sylvia was of age she left her family home to marry a wealthy man.
After years of marriage Sylvia finds that her husband has drifted away from her. Their mother dies suddenly and the girls find out that their mother left both of them the dress shop. Izzie is upset because Sylvia never helped with the shop. She is trying to understand why her mother would leave the shop to them both. This stirs up old resentments and hurts.

The Dressmakers of London is a wonderfully written story. Ms. Kelly has done a huge amount of research for this book. You feel as if you are in London during the war. You learn and understand about the conscription, rationing, adversity and clothing coupons. As this is not my first novel by Ms. Kelly I have grown to appreciate all the work she does to make her stories come alive.

This is a captivating, compelling story about family, love, sisterhood, friendship and fashion. You must read the Author’s Note at the end. Ms. Kelly explains the facts of The Clothes Rationing Order that went into effect in England on June 1, 1941. In 1942 the rules for Clothes Rationing changes again. Ms. Kelly explains how the order imposed further restrictions. These orders shape the characters and the story.

Julia Kelly is one of my favorite authors. I look forward to see what she has in store for us next. I would like to thank her, Gallery Books and NetGalley for the ARC in exchange for an honest review.

In 1940s Great Britain, we meet plain and awkward Izzie who finds comfort in retreating into the safety of the backroom of her mother’s dressmaking shop. Her older sister Sylvia, however, has left Izzi, her mother and the dress shop behind after marrying a wealthy man who introduces her into high society. When their mother unexpectedly dies, the two sisters are surprised to discover that her will stipulates that they both inherit the dress shop, stirring up old resentments and hurt feelings.

Told through alternating POVs, the story unfolds over the final years of World War II as austerity measures and rationing - including clothing allowances - alter the lives of these two young women.

I was thoroughly invested in Izzi and Sylvia's lives. And when Izzi, an unmarried woman, is conscripted into service, they begin to tentatively form a new bond through the letters they exchange.

The sisters, as well as many of the supporting characters, were believable and relatable. I was often annoyed with Izzi's sharp, unforgiving attitude toward her sister but enjoyed watching her develop friendships of her own as her icy exterior begins to melt.

As always, extensive research went into this story, and I loved reading the author's notes at the end where Kelly talks about the rationing and clothing allowances during the war. If you enjoy historical fiction books like the Wedding Dress Sewing Circle, you will certainly enjoy this one.

REVIEW WILL RUN IN NEXT TWO WEEKS

The death of their mother forces two sisters to confront some hard truths about their lives, their relationships, and their pasts in Julia Kelly’s The Dressmakers of London.

Sylvia Shelton Pearsall has married up. All the lovely things life can give one - a beautiful home, fashionable clothes, the right kind of friends - she has. Except for a loving husband. She’s not sure where her fourteen-year marriage to Hugo went wrong but she knows the love letters from another woman in her husband’s desk prove it did. As she is processing the hurt and worry this discovery has generated, she receives a note from her sister informing her their mother has died. Sylvia has long been estranged from the family but she determines to go to the funeral.

Izzie (Isabelle) Shelton has devoted her life, willingly and fervently, to Mrs. Shelton’s Fashions, her mother’s small dress shop. She works as a seamstress and errand girl, her mother having crushed long ago her dreams of being a designer. As one of only two remaining employees and the only living relative still speaking to her mum, Izzie expected to inherit. She is stunned to discover at the reading of the will that her sister received an equal share in the store. Her mother has left the bookkeeping in shambles, making it hard for Izzie to determine if she even has the funds to buy her sister’s stake. And wouldn’t you know it, just as she is struggling to figure everything out, she is conscripted into the WAAF. Sylvia had, before her marriage, been the one to deal with the finances for the shop. The sisters’ best hope of both keeping it open while Izzie is gone and working out exactly where the business stands money-wise is for Sylvia to return and work whatever magic she can with the accounting. With Hugo gone to do his bit for the war, Sylvia can step back into the role of middle-class merchant’s daughter with none of her social circle ever finding out. She can also rebuild the once-loving relationship she had with her last living relative. Or so she hopes.

This story is told in both epistolatory and expository form. Once Izzie is conscripted, the two women communicate through letters, which initially are mostly about the business. This really works to show where their relationship is and what about it needs fixing because their mother’s shop was and is such a huge part of their family dynamic. I loved the author’s exploration of how a family-owned business can become a part of the family and so hugely impact that entity.

Izzie has never been away from home before and quickly realizes she is much more capable than her mother had ever let her see. Making friends from all ranks of life while also excelling at her new work gives her confidence and self-worth that she had never realized she was missing. As the letters from Sylvia grow increasingly personal and the sisters confront some painful truths about their lives, being among her friends provides Izzie the mature guidance she needs to leave behind childish hurts and build a more adult foundation for her future.

Stepping out of her married life enables Sylvia to see how little there is in it. Having never been blessed with children, she has made a family of Hugo and his friends and relations. It grows increasingly clear that they do not see her in the same light. She wrestles with what this will mean for her going forward, especially as she slowly starts to rebuild her relationship with Izzie, her old friend William Gray, and the folks in the neighborhood where she had grown up. Like her sister, Sylvia comes to realize that she is so much more than her former situation had allowed her to be.

I loved how the story was laser-focused on the two sisters and their relationships with each other, the shop, and their mother. The tale did a fabulous job of showcasing how making life changes impacted all of that. The author also does a great job of peeling back the layers of each woman and utilizing their history to build their characters. By the end of the novel, I understood why Sylvia and Izzie had approached life so differently, what had made them vulnerable to their perspective foes, and how self-examination regarding the past enabled them to once more fully embrace themselves and each other.

The book did have some serious flaws, though. The first is with the setting. This is the first novel where I have ever seen WWII in England treated like a minor inconvenience with the only concerns being conscription and rationing. Little is said about the bombings, the serious shortages, or how the war affected literally everything about life in London. It felt more like the American homefront than the British one. I also felt the author had a tendency to paint things in all black or all white so that people with money (minus two notable exceptions) were evil snobs and the working class good-hearted saints. I would have preferred a bit of nuance.

The Dressmakers of London is hard to grade as a result. I thoroughly enjoyed the novel because I have sisters, and this book really nailed how difficult those relationships can be. On the other hand, the flaws were serious enough to put a damper on my pleasure. I’m giving it a tepid recommendation because I think if you enjoy women’s fiction about the relationships we build with our friends, significant others, and families, you’ll like this one. Otherwise, give it a miss.

Julia Kelly (favorite author) returns following The Lost English Girl with THE DRESSMAKERS OF LONDON —a heartfelt, moving novel of two estranged sisters who inherit their late mother’s dressmaking shop in London during WWII.

Little do they know, this inheritance will lead them on a journey of discovery, love, and forgiveness, with lots of unexpected twists and turns.

About...

In the 1940s, Great Britain and Izzie enjoyed the backroom of her mother's dressmaking shop. After her father's tragic accident, her mother purchased the shop to support herself and the girls.

Sylvia left their mom and sister to marry a wealthy and sophisticated man. When the mom dies, Izzie is upset to discover her mom left the shop to both the girls.

This stirs up old resentments and hurt feelings but also reignites the unbreakable bond between the two sisters as they begin writing letters to one another.

Then, the conscription forces Izzie to join the Auxiliary Territorial Service in another part of the country. In a testament to their resilience, Sylvia steps up to save the shop from ruin.

My thoughts...

THE DRESSMAKERS OF LONDON is a beautifully written story of two sisters during the war and all its many restrictions during this era. The letters between the two sisters allowed readers to hear their innermost thoughts.

Meticulously researched, Kelly does an outstanding job portraying the era and the familial struggles in the face of adversity.

A compelling, captivating, and fascinating story of fashion, family, love, forgiveness, sisterhood, and friendship with all things dressmaking and fashion.

I thoroughly enjoyed the Author's Note regarding the clothing rationing during WWII and its effect on women. The Clothes Rationing Order went into effect on June 1, 1941. From restrictions, rationing, and coupons. In 1942, the rules changed again with the introduction of the Board of Trade's Civilian Clothing Order, or CC41. This order imposed further restrictions on clothing design and influenced the characters' lives and the novel's plot.

Recs...

This is for fans of the author and those who enjoy stories of sisters, family, WWII, and historical fiction.

Thanks to Gallery Books and NetGalley for an advanced review copy in exchange for an honest review.

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My Rationg: 4.5 Stars
Pub Date: Feb 18, 2025
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It feels like every third book right now is set during World War II but it is a time period that always catches my attention. In this book I felt like Kelly really focused on two areas that I haven't seen much about before - dressmakers dealing with fabric shortages and the changes in clothing coupons as well as women in military service. I knew nothing about barrage balloons or the clothing restrictions and found both areas fascinating.

The relationship between the two sisters is complex and made more challenging by misunderstandings and poor communication. I loved that the bulk of the communication between the two was through letters and it allowed them to really speak to each other. Seeing their lives evolve as the war continues was fascinating and really helped me connect with both characters and become invested in their worlds. Izzie did drive me a bit crazy at times but I also couldn't help but sympathize with her.

I really enjoyed this book and this author has become an auto-buy for me. I look forward to reading more from her. If you enjoy historical fiction with well-drawn characters this is a wonderful read.

If there is a writer who does stories set during WWII well, it's author Julia Kelly. The first book I ever read of her, The Last Garden of England had me from the very first sentence, and after that I've been reading every new book she's written. The story is filled with family drama, two sisters torn apart when the eldest sister marries a wealth doctor, leaving her family behind. Years later in the early days of WWII, their mother suddenly passes away leaving the family dress shop two both her daughters, for a time when they 'need it most'. Through their letters as younger sister Izzie is conscripted the WAAF they have the opportunity to either reconnect or be separated forever.

I received this book free of charge from NetGalley in exchange for my honest review.

Izzie and Sylvia's mother dis and they find themselves suddenly co-owning the dress shop their mother ran in 1940's London. The war is starting to gear up.

Several years earlier Sylvia left home and got married. Sylvia's husband isn't very nice to her. He is away as a doctor in the Royal Navy. He is also unfaithful. So when Izzie is called up to the Women’s Auxiliary Territorial Service, Sylvia is left to run the dress shop with long time employee, Miss Harris.

Izzie wasn't happy about this choice because she felt that Sylvia abandoned her and their mother.

The story alternates between the sister's stories and kept my attention.

THE DRESSMAKERS OF LONDON by Julia Kelly is a work of historical fiction set in WWII London and the English countryside. Two sisters, Sylvia and Izzie, were once close, but they have become estranged since Sylvia married and moved away from the flat above the dressmaking shop her widowed mother had established. Izzie is younger but she is the one who inherited sewing and designer skills and desperately wants to run the dress shop. Sylvia is busy with her new husband and trying to fit in with his rather snobbish social set until their Mother dies and leaves the shop to both sisters and then old resentments flare. The situation worsens when Izzie is conscripted, and Sylvia has to take over the daily shop activities. I especially liked the author's inclusion of letters written between the two sisters; these illustrated their changing feelings and ultimate concern for each other. Kelly also added some romantic aspects for each woman and plenty of historic details about wartime clothes rationing and barrage balloons. In addition to other titles by Julia Kelly, interested readers may also enjoy The Wedding Dress Sewing Circle or other historical fiction works by Jennifer Ryan.

NOTE: 4.5 STARS

I loved this book, which included some of my favorite themes: sisters, social issues and the home front of England during WWII. Izzie worked in her mother’s dressmaking shop, long after her older sister, Sylvia, left them behind to marry a wealthy doctor. When her mother dies, the shop is left to both sisters equally. When Izzie is conscripted into the WAAFs, Izzie and Sylvia have to face many truths bout themselves and their relationship. Julia Kelly is one of my favorite authors, and I highly recommend this title. Thanks to NetGalley for the ARC.