A vivid window into 16th century Bologna and the lives of its inhabitants, as they struggle for their lives and livelihoods in a deeply patriarchal society. I wasn't entirely captivated by the story, but overall an enjoyable work of historical fiction.

Evocative historical debut

In a year with plenty of historical fiction releases, here’s another one that should join your TBR. Hard to believe that this is a debut, Virgo’s intelligent and deviously plotted novel brings Renaissance Bologna to life around our heroine Elena. A talented seamstress who wants to be a tailor like her late father, her choices are limited, and although she has allies and friends, there are also powerful enemies in plain sight.

A revenge story laced into an immersive historical novel, Virgo brings a very modern sensibility to the character of Elena, a woman with so much agency that it’s no wonder she achieves whatever she puts her mind to. The supporting characters are all well rounded, and Virgo isn’t afraid to let them be human and irritated and spiky. There are no perfect heroes here, just a strong cast across the board.

Four and a half stars, rounded up to five.

Set in 16th-century Bologna, Italy. The story follows Elena Morandi, an orphaned seamstress who aspires to become a tailor—a profession traditionally reserved for men. Despite societal constraints, Elena secures a position in a master tailor's workshop. Her journey becomes perilous when she encounters Antonio della Fontana, a powerful merchant with a dark past connected to her time at the Baraccano orphanage. Determined to seek justice for herself and others harmed by Fontana, Elena devises a plan to confront him.

Glennis Virgo’s debut novel, City of Silk, transports readers to 16th-century Bologna, a city renowned for its exquisite textiles and rigid societal norms. The narrative centers on Elena Morandi, a gifted seamstress who aspires to break gender barriers by becoming a tailor—a profession exclusively reserved for men during that era. Her journey is fraught with challenges, particularly from Antonio della Fontana, a powerful merchant with a sinister connection to her past. 

Virgo’s meticulous research brings Renaissance Italy to life, capturing the essence of its culture, politics, and the intricate world of tailoring. The novel delves into themes of ambition, resilience, and the fight against systemic oppression, highlighting the struggles of women striving for recognition in a patriarchal society. 

In summary, City of Silk is a compelling exploration of a woman’s quest for autonomy and justice in a world that seeks to confine her. Virgo’s debut stands out for its vivid historical setting and the depth of its protagonist’s journey.

3.75 stars

I finally got around to reading City of Silk. I initially received this as an ARC from NetGalley, but the formatting of the PDF made it unreadable on my eReader, so I didn’t end up reading it until after it was published. Thanks to the publisher, Allison & Busby, for providing the opportunity to read an early copy, even though I ultimately used the finished version.

If you’re considering reading this, I’d recommend looking up trigger warnings beforehand. The book turned out to be darker than I anticipated. While the themes were necessary for the story, they could be difficult for readers who’ve recently dealt with similar sensitive topics.

The setting was one of the book’s strong points. The religious and cultural atmosphere of Bologna felt authentic and well-researched, suiting the time period perfectly. There were moments when I wasn’t sure how the story would maintain its momentum, but Virgo managed to keep the narrative flowing smoothly.

I also appreciated the depth of the themes and Virgo’s bravery in tackling difficult topics. This wasn’t just a straightforward historical fiction about a seamstress, the story was thought-provoking. Elena, the protagonist, was a flawed character, which made her more relatable and realistic. Other characters often called her out for being self-centered, which I appreciated, as it showed her need for growth. However, even when she was aware of her behavior, she didn’t always change it, which was occasionally frustrating. For example, when a character changes their name during the story, Elena refuses to use their new name despite knowing it would mean a lot to them. It’s realistic, but it shows she still has much to learn about respect and empathy.

That said, Elena’s age was a source of confusion for me. Based on the timeline, I thought she was around 13 or 14, but some of her reasoning and actions felt too mature for someone that young. Also, the epilogue places a significant responsibility on her that felt unrealistic for someone so young. It’s possible I missed her exact age being mentioned, but I hope she was meant to be at least 17.

Where the book struggled most for me was in its believability. The idea of a woman becoming a tailor’s apprentice during that time seemed highly unlikely, and the ending felt a little too neatly resolved. While I appreciated the feminist undertones, they sometimes felt too modern for the historical context, which is just a shame.

In her debut novel, City of Silk, the author Glennis Virgo literally took me on a tour of 16th century Bologna, Italy, a city which was known for its silk production and where being a tailor was a sought after profession but still considered strictly a man's job. I enjoyed the descriptions of the sights and sounds of the city and also the details about the different methods of sewing. It was interesting to see how, in the absence of a sewing machine, every suit and dress was stitched by hand. While reading the book, I also kept checking photographs of the city and the major landmarks mentioned online to help me visualise the setting better.

My thanks to NetGalley, the publisher Allison & Busby and the author for the digital ARC of the book. I have recently been auto-approved by the publisher so a big thank you to them!

Rating: 🌟🌟🌟🌟

Thank you to NetGalley and to the publisher Allison & Busby for the digital ARC, it has not affected my honest review. 


TW: sexual assault, racism, slavery, references to rape, homophobia, religion 


Bologna, 1575. Having been raised at the Baraccano orphanage for girls, Elena Morandi has made something of herself thanks to her talents in embroidery and sewing. She wants nothing more than to be a tailor but this is a profession that women are banned from. Elena’s life is shattered when she’s told that a marriage has been arranged for her, so she takes to the streets- seeking her fortune in the world outside to avoid this future. With luck and her incredible skill Elena manages to gain a role in the workshop of a master tailor with his own damning secrets. However, when Antonio della Fontana, the incredibly wealthy benefactor of the Baraccano who abuses many of the girls for his own gain, comes to the tailor’s, Elena soon plots for revenge and justice against him in remembrance of a lost friend, for herself and for those who are still threatened and victims of his terrible abuse. Aided by Sofia, a woman brought to Italy as a slave, the legendary artist family of the Carracis and Fontana’s own daughter, Elena goes up against a man who has until now been entirely untouchable. 


This is an incredibly detailed and richly woven story of justice and revenge set in Renaissance Italy during a time when women had little rights and certain men had all the control. Elena is a powerful main character, for all that she has been through she’s still incredibly kind and so deeply talented that everyone (whether they like it or not) can see it. I liked Elena’s relationships with the other characters a lot, particularly the older male tailor who takes a chance on her and how she comes to view him when she finds out his hidden secrets. This book makes no effort to hide the raw truth of the disgraceful things that people went through in this era, it focuses particularly on the treatment of slaves, women and LGBTQIA+ people by the upper classes and the lack of accountability given to rich and powerful men. The community that Elena builds for herself is beautifully written, whether it’s her fellow tailors, Sofia and the girls back in her old home or the famous Carraci family of artists, and I loved how they all worked together to destroy della Fontana. The Italian Renaissance is my favourite era of history and this book’s descriptions are gorgeous, you feel as if you’re walking the streets of Bologna alongside Elena and I was truly invested in her story.

In this vibrant and incredibly detailed new historical fiction title, readers travel to sixteenth century Bologna where Elena Morandi, a seamstress, dreams of becoming a tailor (a profession barred to her on account of her gender) and will do anything to make it happen -- including waiting patiently and disguising herself as a boy in the workshop of a master tailor. As her past comes back to haunt her in some terrible and traumatic ways in the form of Antonio della Fontana, Elena must do what she can to protect herself and her friends from his wrath, especially since he is above the law in Bologna. Planning to get retribution for everyone he has hurt and wronged, Elena and her allies must work quickly before more people get hurt. With content warnings for sexual assault and violence (towards adults and minors) as well as homophobia (within the historical context, though still potentially triggering), this new historical fiction title is masterful in its character development and worldbuilding. Successfully bringing Elena and her world to life, Virgo has created a complex, vibrant, and fascinating historical setting of Renaissance Italy and its material culture that fans of the genre will be immersed in in this new and incredible release.

Orphaned at an early age, Elena enters an orphanage in Bologna where the girls are subject to abuse at the hands of a wealthy patron. Elena is a talented seamstress but, to avoid a dreary marriage, she gets work at a tailor’s workshop. In the 16th century this is frowned upon and when her abuser appears and demands she is removed, Elena finds herself at her lowest. However friendship and talent mean that she is able to exact her revenge.
There is a lot to like about this book, the setting and the plot to a certain extent but it never really catches fire for me. I did like teh treatment of racism and prejudice but it’s all a little too ‘clean’.

A beautifully written story of a woman with a talent for tailoring, living in 16th century Italy, who overcomes obstacles to become a respected tailor in her own right and defeats the powerful and the corrupt who would try to stop her. Elena Morandi jumps off the page and draws you into her story as skillfully as she makes her garments. A real delight to read.

Glennis Virgo immerses the reader in the world of 16th century Italy through Elena, a young woman with dreams of becoming a tailor. With the detailed descriptions of Bologna’s sprawling alleys and roads, the famous churches and towers, as well as the well-known Piazza Maggiore, you get an idea of the hustle and bustle of historic Bologna. With that being said, I think this book could have been 50 pages shorter if there were less instances of Elena’s travels from this side of the city to that side of the city. I seriously felt worn out with just mentally traversing the city - but more importantly, not really much happened on these travels, just inner dialogue. I also found Elena to be frustratingly self-centered. Once someone tells you that their real name is ___, I feel like it should be obvious that you should call them by their real name unless otherwise stated. The ending felt a bit abrupt and I wish we would have gotten more. And honestly, what is even the point of the possible romance between Elena and Agostino? I don’t think it was necessary, especially with how it ended. The way Virgo describes the fabrics and the art of tailoring is beautiful though and certainly made me appreciate and acknowledge it in a way that I hadn’t before.

Thank you NetGalley, Allison & Busby and Glennis Virgo for the opportunity to read this eARC!

Thoroughly enjoyed seeing 16th century Bologne through the eyes of Elena - a superbly talented seamstress. Heartbreak at times, yet many of the people who come into her life build her up, far more than her oppressor is able to tear her down.
Would definitely recommend!

I was sent a copy of City of Silk by Glennis Virgo to read and review by NetGalley. I enjoyed this novel, although I did find that it ran along a similar vein to some other historical novels that I have read. The book is written first person, which I always like and there is obviously a lot of research that went into producing this book, however I did find it somewhat pedestrian and predictable in places. There was also a section towards the end of the book that seemed to be missing completely, which was a little confusing for a moment or two. I also thought that after the whole build-up of the story the end seemed rather rushed and I was torn between giving it a 3 or 4 star rating. I eventually decided on the latter as there is no 3.5 option.

A well-crafted story with plenty to appreciate. The pacing, characters, and plot twists kept me interested throughout. I'm looking forward to seeing how readers respond once it's released!

*Thank you to NetGalley & Allison & Busby for providing a digital copy to review*

Historical fiction is one of my favourite genres to read and after not reading one in a while this just felt like a warm hug. I just adore getting glimpses of another time and place especially if they’re set in places like Bologna which is somewhere I would love to visit one day and find fascinating.

I really enjoyed reading the story of Elena who manages to get a position in the workshop of a master tailor, a profession she cannot pursue because of her sex. Her new beginning gets threatened however when a figure from her past walks right into the shop and she is forced to confront the terrible things that happened in her past which are closely linked to the powerful and corrupt man.

I greatly admired Elena’s bravery. Trying to stand up for herself, her friends, and all the girls from the orphanage who were at this man’s mercy. We also see her ingrained thoughts and beliefs challenged and she learns to be accepting of the people around her. This book was a real character-building journey for Elena and I enjoyed seeing her grow.

I also really enjoyed the inclusion of the Carracci’s who are notable Renaissance artists and it just made me so happy as I am an Art History nerd and am particularly interested in the Italian Renaissance.

What a fabulous book. It ticks all the boxes; beautifully written, a very engaging story, believable characters that the reader engages with and a beautiful setting but to mention a few. I loved it.

Elena parents die and she ends up in an orphanage for girls, where the benefactor, a rich nobleman, takes advantage.
All Elena wants to be is a tailor, but as a girl all she can be is a seamstress. But she is a determined young lady who manages to secure a job at a master tailor. Will she be able to reach her goal? Will she overcome the trauma from her time in the orphanage?

Well done Glennis Virgo, you have written an amazing book and given me a new travel destination, Bologna.

I really enjoyed this story. I thought the characters and setting were wonderful. It's very timely, but still makes sense in the historical setting. It has many relatable elements like trying to land your dream job, found family, and things as serious as the dangers marginalized populations face on the daily. It's full of grit, determination, compassion, and it's ultimately very uplifting.

I thank NetGalley for giving me an advance copy of this book in exchange for an honest review.

Like Glennis Virgo, I too am enraptured by Italy of yesterday and today, so this book and its story of Bologna in 1575 felt positively hand to glove. There is a lot - and I repeat, a lot of plot that goes into this short but fairly detailed book. We meet our heroine, Elena, an orphan and a seamstress, with ambitions of becoming a tailor. Tailors were males in Bologna in 1575 and will be for quite some time. However, through cunning, gumption and desperation, Elena has a dream to make it happen, partly due to her talents, partly to honour her father's legacy and partly because she's stubborn beyond measure.

And as we lift the veil, we have an assortment of secondary characters that intersect in Elena's life. Sofia, who Elena calls Sofia but is actually Suhailah, is a fellow seamstress and a mixed-race character mistrusted in superstitious medieval Italy. We have the Signora, who wants to wed Elena off, meaning she'll never work in the profession she wants. So, Elena escapes and, by pure pluck, gains another position, which causes her personal life at the orphanage and her professional life to intersect when we meet Antonio della Fontana.

I thought this was a fine effort, especially for a debut. There was so much going on that perhaps this book could have benefited from some light dialogue to break up the action but I very much enjoyed the frenzied action. The plot I didn't totally believe, perhaps the last 50 pages or so, but it certainly provided great entertainment. The description of the threads, silks and designs within the city were illuminating and inviting, as were the foods and religious ceremonies. A real charmer of a novel.

Elena has a talent I covet, her talent is with needle and thread, spending her day amongst beautiful fabrics. I would give anything to spend my days there too. But in Bologna 1575, women were not tailors as her father had been. And especially not orphaned women, like Elena, yet that was her desire.
Because her life is no longer her own, a condition of being an orphan was to learn a skill, then be married off and Elena's time had come...so she runs and must carve out a living for herself. If only things were that simple.
Born into a world and a time where men are only considered, and men only can pursue their dreams, Elena's life is a daily struggle not only to survive, but to succeed.

It's a story about the loneliness of loss. Its about friendship, the cruelty of abuse and slavery, inner strength and determination.
The books language is like that of rich cloth, its characters are as individually designed as an array of voguish gowns. Its elegant and enchanting.
Thank you @netgalley @glennisvirgo and @allisonandbusby for the opportunity to read an early copy of this gorgeous book

Suse

A debut historical novel set in 16th century Bologna and is the story of Elena, an orphaned seamstress who yearns to be a tailor like her father in the City of Silk. I was captured by the impeccable sense of time and place, the well written characters and the social, cultural and political elements that were woven together. A beautiful and emotional novel that transported me back n time.