The Ornatrix

Dark, disturbing, beautiful, and gritty. I loved this book!
The Ornatrix by Kate Howard is a darkly beautiful historical fiction novel that takes us to Italy and to the story of Flavia, the daughter of a dyer. Flavia was born with a bird-shaped birthmark on her face, and lives hidden away from the world. She is sent to a convent, where she meets the hypnotizing Ghostanza, who teaches Flavia the art of beauty.
The Ornatrix has a fascinating premise, one that I was drawn to instantly upon reading the official synopsis, and it did not disappoint. It thrusts you into the world where women paint their faces with white-lead paint, slowly killing themselves to look beautiful.
The research that Kate Howard did was outstanding. The Ornatrix educates without sounding like a textbook. Each chapter is prefaced with a quote about old beauty techniques, and these were fascinating and horrifying to read what was recommended in the name of beauty. From the white-lead based cerussa (a kind of paste that covers the face), to plucking hairs way back along the forehead, to bathing in depilatory saunas that use quicklime and yellow arsenic, the beauty regimens were riveting to read about.
Besides what women used to do for the sake of beauty, there is also information about fabric and leather dying, and how this is done. This was fascinating to read about as well, as how certain items are used to make the colors more vibrant, and to learn how the process is done.
In terms of characters, they were intriguing, as none of them are what you could say is “likable”, but they are each fascinating in their own disturbing way. Our main character, Flavia, is compelling, in that she is very flawed. She’s not all that nice, she lies, she causes problems with her sister, but all of this comes from a place of how she was raised and treated due to the birthmark on her face. So, while she is flawed, she is very much human, and therefore is an interesting protagonist.
But the book belongs to Ghostanza Dolfin, the mysterious, beautiful Venetian woman who takes refuge in the convent. Did she murder her husband? Is she a courtesan? Does she have a younger lover? Ghostanza is violent and haunting, and she hides the secret of her Venetian cerussa, which Flavia and the apothecary, Il Sicofante, try to discover.
Other characters include Gilia Tassi, Ghostanza’s stepdaughter who is about to be married, Maestro Vitale, a Jewish physician who tries to dissuade the use of the cosmetics, and Il Sicofante, the apothecary that Flavia goes to work for. These characters are also interesting, and help round out the atmosphere of the novel.
The Ornatrix is very, very gritty. This is not your clean and easy historical fiction. It is darkly disturbing, and has some graphic scenes. Some of the descriptions of characters and actions are downright crude, and at times I just did not want those descriptions in my head, but at the same time the grittiness serves the dark atmosphere, and the juxtaposition between what is beautiful and what is ugly. So, for those wanting a nice, clean work of historical fiction, you may not care for the darkness noted here. But if the image of a woman rotting away on the inside while appearing beautiful on the outside intrigues you, you may really enjoy this novel.
The ending of this novel was shocking and disturbing, but fits the narrative, and I can’t wait to discuss this book with someone who has read it! I think this would be an excellent book club selection, provided the book club is willing to take on a more mature book, as there is so much to discuss, and the ending was absolutely spellbinding. This is a book that will stay with me for a long time. Highly recommended for those that enjoy informative, compelling historical fiction.

Bottom Line: Dark and gritty, but beautiful. Excellent historical fiction!